The DMN's new restaurant critic, Bill Addison, makes his debut this week with a three-fer review of Bob's, Aurora, and York Street. Mighty fine wordsmithin ("verdant cloud" -- duh, that means green, right?), big ups, and so on, but the best part is speculating what his debut might have cost the financially-beleaguered, employee-offlaying, penny-pinching Snooze.

Let's see. He seems to have taken one person to Aurora, and at least two each to Bob's and York Street. OK, these are just ballpark guesses:

• Aurora X 2 (minus wine, since he doesn't mention wine service) = $350
• Bob's X 3 (with wine) = $450
• York Street X 3 (wine, since he mentions the sommelier, plus three desserts) = $400
• TOTAL: $1200

During the time I reviewed restaurants for the DMN (1993-2004), the monthly budget goal for ALL reviews was $1500 to $2,000. We are talking 4 weeks X 3-4 reviews per week, for a total of 12-16 reviews per month. Loosely, about $100 per review with some breathing room.

So erm, if you take the $1,200 and subtract it from $2,000, that leaves - - $800 for the rest of the month.

Which, more power to the guy. It's typical DMN style: Put on the dog bigtime for the new guy -- sky's the limit! -- and then start beating him down. So here's to a great honeymoon -- might as well have fun while it lasts.