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Thursday, December 20, 2007

Where do you get good cajun food in DFW?

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I'm really at a loss as to where to find good cajun food in Fort Worth. And, no, Pappadeaux's really doesn't cut it. Not that the food is bad -- it's quite tasty -- it's just I never have an exceptional dining experience there. I feel overfed and overcharged.

Anyway, I bring this up because I did experience a total Cajun foodgasm today ... in Dallas. The place in question is Dodie's on Greenville Ave.

I ended up there because no good deed goes unpunished. Like two years ago, I did some design work for my friend, Lee Roth. Lee's a very accomplished landscape architect. I won't name-drop his clients, but most of them are nine and ten-figure net-worth types. Yeah, I know how many zeros that is.

Anyway, I did a little favor for Lee and he says, how much? I say, don't worry about it. He says, I'll take you to lunch. Deal.

Now, Lee is from New Orleans, so I know he knows good Cajun. So I say, hook me up, brutha. And then a lot of time passes.

So today, Lee calls me and says, you got lunch plans? I do now. And that's how I ended up at Dodie's.

Basically, I don't even need to look at a menu -- Lee just orders. We start off with Abita Amber. Now, I don't know about you, but there's something about drinking beer at lunch when you are really supposed to be working that just kicks ass. Maybe it's the beer part.

Well, if you follow that up with some really great food, it gets better.

For starters, there was this cole slaw -- vinegary, not creamy -- with loads of garlic. Now, I hate cole slaw and I ate the whole bowl.

Then we moved on to chicken and sausage gumbo. I've been leaning toward this a little more when I eat at home, except I like to put a little duck in there when I can get it. But I digress, the gumbo was superb. The roux was actually a little on the light green side -- not the thick, dark brown to which I'm accustomed. Again, I ate the whole bowl.

That was followed up with Cajun tamales, which are these chili peppers stuffed with this -- I dunno? -- crawfish sausage? -- then deep fried. Wowza.

We are just now getting to the entree -- crawfish etouffee. Again, this was a little different than I'm used to -- the roux was red with a hint of tomato. And the best part was the crawfish were fresh. Excellent.

Because this wasn't enough food, I sampled with red beans and rice. Lee believes that great red beans need to be thoroughly soaked -- which few people will do. These were soaked and served with grilled andouille sausage. I'm going to order this next time.

So we ate, talked about some of his projects, bamboo for my yard, LSU football and kids. And as you can imagine, I wasn't worth a shit at work all afternoon. Is Christmas here yet?

Anyway, thanks, Lee. You are a rock star. And if anyone knows where to find good Cajun in the Fort, lemme know.

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Comments

Donna Chen Verified

Thanks for the review, Steve. Dodie's has an outpost in Carrollton that I've been meaning to try. Will definitely try out some of your menu recs.

8 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Rawlins Gilliland Verified

Alligator Cafe, 4416 Live Oak in Dallas ...totally classic Cajun...and Crescent City Cafe in Deep Ellum, 2615 Commerce Street. Always a good mix of classic Cajun and authentic relatives.

8 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

chrisdanger Anonymous

Dodies makes some of the best crawfish ettouffe around in these parts.

8 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

toddiuszho Anonymous

"Foodgasm" was my exact sentiment when sampling the day's special on my first visit to the Greenville Dodie's. Nate's in Addison is good, but they have become pricier lately.

8 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Tracy Yost Verified

Crescent City was the best but they are closed. (Or did they re-open somewhere and I haven't found them yet ?) Best fried oyster po-boy I ever had....

8 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Billusa99 Anonymous

Great beer, good review, but you mixed a few metaphors.

Dodie's is not a Cajun Cafe, but a south Looziana cafe. Cajun roux is med-dark brown and a Creole roux is always much lighter and often has the green tinge you noticed, which comes from the use of more file powder (file gumbo, get it?).

Likewise the etoufee, which is made by both Cajuns and Creoles.

Creole cooking, being the cooking of the gentrified, city-dwelling folks (old French, Spanish and multi-blooded rich 'Merkins), is prone to the use of tomatoes and milder spices. Cajun cooking, being the south LA bayou and country cooking of the poor (and original ancestors of the Acadians from Nova Scotia) is earthier, darker, much hotter and focuses on heavy aromas and herbs. And any dead animal that can be braised or fried. Thus, Dodie's etoufee leans more towards Creole than Cajun.

Any red beans worth their salt are always soaked 24 hours first because you start with dried beans -- preferably 'Camellia' brand from Harahan, LA -- not canned.

Lastly, if anyone can give me a source to buy Camellia red beans in Dallas -- Jimmy's does not carry them any more -- I'll personally deliver a pint of my wife's homemade recipe to you. You will have died and gone to heaven, for she learned it all from her Cajun Maw-Maw from Montegut, LA.

8 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Billusa99 Anonymous

One more thing before I'm attacked with a soft-shelled crab by Alligator-Ivan or another Cajun cohort... I did not mean to suggest that Dodie's roux was not Cajun. Cajuns use a lot of file in their cooking. My guess is they don't use a dark, rich roux (and go the file roux route instead) is because it's damn hard to make a LOT of it correctly. Burn it and you start over. Chris/Dodie and Charlie make damn fine food at damn fine prices and it doesn't make sense for them to mess it up by going 'uptown' on the gumbo base.

8 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Michael Anderson Verified

I second the motion on Alligator Cafe. Love the blackened alligator and homemade root beer, and I'm pretty sure it's the only Cajun place in town with a drive thru.

Sadly, Rawlins, the Crescent City Cafe is no more. Twisted Root Burger took over its location about a year and a half ago.

8 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

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