Jimmy’s Food Store debuts wine room

by Alfonso Cevola

Foodies and bon vivants help inaugurate the new wine room at the best Italian food shop in Dallas.

DALLAS — The day started with a persistent gust of wind from the south. El Niño was pushing the cold weather back north. This was going to be a "Big Night" for East Dallas. Jimmy's was inaugurating their back room, their circolo, with Tuscan vintner Andrea Cecchi and a group of Italian food- and wine-loving insiders.

Mercedes, Volvos, and exotics lined the parking spaces in this urban-fusion neighborhood. It's a part of Dallas that has some of the best Asian food, along with an encampment of several Italians, herb-brujo Tom Spicer, a community garden frequented by Cambodian and Vietnamese farmers, and Latino and hip-hop locals who call this place home. Everyone gets along well, no one has major turf problems, and Dallas is a richer place because of it.

The foodies started piling in early, Smart Cars and Dodge trucks alike, filling in the spaces. Nervous proprietor Paul Di Carlo was working the phones to make sure all the folks who reserved were coming. Boxes and boxes of Cecchi wine were scattered high in the store.

Good-looking people and plates mingled with great wines from Tuscany; the food was homemade and rustic, delicious and fresh. This night was meant to expand the scope of the East Dallas neighborhood grocery store, now specializing more in Italian foods and wines. More dinners and wine flights are planned for the future. With an Italian winemaking family from Tuscany launching the new space, Dallas was kicking winter back and making room for spring.

Andrea Cecchi's family has been making wine in Tuscany since 1893. They now have Castello Montauto in San Gimignano, Villa Cerna in the Chianti Classico zone, Val delle Rose in Tuscan coastal Maremma and Tenuta Alzatura in Umbria for the famous Sagrantino.

From the light and delicate Vernaccia to the assertive Vermentino, the white wines were a contrast between themselves. The Morellino and the Chianti Classico Riserva provided counterpoint between the new frontier of the Maremma and the traditional classico area near Florence. A Vino Nobile then danced with a single vineyard Chianti Classico Riserva, the Teuzzo. Finally we ended with a 2001 Sangiovese Super Tuscan, the Spargolo.

Before the night was over, folks were milling around, drinking real espresso and fresh Southern Italian pastry-style cookies. Cecchi was signing a bottle or two for this smart set of wine lovers before they loaded up their big (and little) cars for the ride back home. Great memories are made from nights like this. There will be more.

Alfonso Cevola writes On the Wine Trail in Italy, a blog about food and wine in Texas and Italy.

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