Best Bites: Dining out in Dallas-Fort Worth November 9

by Teresa Gubbins

BLT Steak Dallas finally opens this month, the latest out-of-towner steakhouse to come to Dallas -- possibly unaware that steak is the one thing we already do well. But maybe its French-bistro twist will set it apart. It comes from New York chef and Grade-A Frenchy Laurent Tourondel.

Recently named "Restaurateur of the Year" by Bon Appetit magazine, Tourondel has become a restaurant heavyweight with his BLT Restaurant Group, whose roster includes BLT Burger, BLT Fish, BLT Prime, and BLT Market. (No "BLT Coffee" yet.)

The first BLT Steak opened in New York in 2004; subsequent branches opened in White Plains, N.Y., Washington, D.C., Miami, Los Angeles, and San Juan. The Web site describes "steaks dressed with a selection of sauces, ranging from Bearnaise to horseradish, and paired with decadent sides such as Parmesan flavored gnocchi and oversized onion rings."

It's located in Village on the Green, yet-another urban-village project, this time at the northeast corner of Alpha and Noel, across from the Galleria where 202 residential units sit on top of 90,000 square feet of high-end retail and restaurant space.

Kathleen's now a flygirl

The promised overhaul of Kathleen's Art Cafe is complete: Say hello to Kathleen's Sky Diner, a ramped-up remodel with a vague airplane theme. Most of the local-art-for-sale on the walls that gave the place its name is gone, replaced by retro photos of New York and road maps for an overall "hangar" vibe. ("I think we ought to be wearing stewardess outfits," said one server.) The menu now features items that were previously specials only; the desserts, breakfasts, and late-night hours remain, as they have since Kathleen and Robert Ellington opened the place in 1988.

Valencia adios

Valencia, the upscale buffet opened by the folks behind Palomina's Buffet, has closed. The restaurant had an insanely plentiful selection of foods from around the world, priced at $11.99 at lunch and $16.99 at dinner. But the words "upscale" and "buffet" do not a successful concept make. Not helping the restaurant's fortunes: the lethal combination of high rent and poor location at the corner of Belt Line Road and Quorum Drive. This is the same strip center that has struck down such perennials as Gilbert's Deli and Monica's Aca y Alla.

And in fact, the location is bad enough that seafood restaurant Go Fish is aiming to move on out, too. Go Fish owner Mike Hoque, a seafood aficionado who also owns Fish Express and Dallas Fish Market in downtown Dallas, expects to relocate Go Fish by the end of 2007 -- very likely in the same center across from the Galleria Dallas as BLT Steak Dallas.

Clay Pit changes hands

Clay Pit, the Indian restaurant that opened in Addison in 2002, has changed hands: Chef-owner Tinku Saini and his sisters Renu and Jo sold the place last month. The family also sold the original Austin branch which opened in 1998 (and was named one of America's best restaurants by Bon Appetit magazine in 2001). When a buyer expressed interest in the Austin branch, it gave Tinku pause. Then, when Rena's husband got a job out of town, the restaurant's fate was sealed. Navin Reddy, who bought the Dallas branch, has barely had a chance to catch his breath but intends to keep the innovative Indian-fusion menu.

Pringles Select

Pringles Select came out about a year ago, but just showed up at the local market. In general, Pringles are gross since their connection to real food is so tenuous. But Pringles Select at least come in a bag -- preferable to regular Pringles' environmentally bogus can. (What does it tell you about a food product when its primary attribute is its reduced packaging?)

The Select line is described on Pringles Web site as "gourmet", with five flavors: Parmesan garlic, sun-dried tomato, Szechuan barbecue, cinnamon sweet potato, and honey chipotle barbecue. (Chipotle = very hot these days.) Both the Parmesan garlic and the sweet potato were pretty addictive. They're small, like the round mini tortilla chips; crisp; and come coated with lots of seasoning. The sweet potato version actually makes you feel like you're eating something healthy, which is such a novel feeling to have when you are eating chips.

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