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Monday, November 26, 2007

Small authentic Italian called Nonna finally opens in Dallas

By Teresa Gubbins

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DALLAS — First Nonna was going to open in the spring. Then, hopefully, by May. Then for SURE by August. Well saints be praised, Nonna did finally open this weekend, ta-da. Restaurant openings always get delayed -- but that's often especially so when a place is small (Nonna seats 40), independently-owned, and trying to do something Different.

Nonna does Neapolitan pizzas and authentic Italian food, and tries to use as many local and sustainable ingredients as possible. Chef is Julian Barsotti, aka Jules, aka Daniel; he spent some time cooking in restaurants in California, including the well-rated Oliveto Cafe in Berkeley, working with VIFP (Very Important Food People) whose lineage goes back to Chez Panisse, so howzat for cred.

Named after his grandmother, Nonna is located in what used to be the old Alessio's space, which also serves as home to Food Company, a catering operation by Andrea Hagar and Shelley Hudson; Julian is Shelley's son ... though it can be hard to extract this info from the young manager who, when asked who the chef was, responded with his own question, "Who do you think it is?" Guessing games are fun! though not what you expect from a manager.

They've installed a wood-burning oven custom-designed for the site; the room has exposed brick walls and high ceilings; and the menu changes daily, so there's a 50-50 chance that what you had today won't be there tomorrow.

There's not much else out there for novelty-bound foodie types, so for the next few weeks, Nonna's probably going to be the center of the universe. But then Villa-O will finally open, and so will Alberto Lombardi's new Cuban concept, and BLT Steakhouse, and the Highland Park crowd will be in Aspen, and maybe you'll be able to get a table at Nonna's.

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Comments

bea_harper_57 Anonymous

As you know, Rome was not built in a day. Great restaurants take time. And in my opinion this was worth the wait.

I have eaten at their restaurant two times now and have been thrilled with the menu and the choices I made while dining at Nonna.

I have enjoyed the setting, but most especially the food. Which I noticed you had not mentioned anything about the food. Only your frustration with the slow opening of a great neighborhood bistro.

I would love to hear more about what you think and know about the food and presentation of the food at Nonna.

Did you know that the restaurant was named after Jules' Grandmother and that Jules hand makes all of his pasta, lasagna noodles by hand. And that he spent months in Italy learning to perfect true Italian dishes. Jules cures his own meats and labors over his sauces for hours. This is what makes a restaurant special. Please get back to me about what you think about the food at Nonna, not the delay and not knowing more about the restaurant because you truly missed the mark here.

This bistro is a gem.

1 year, 11 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Teresa Gubbins

Teresa Gubbins Staff

hey bea harper, thanks for your comment; this wasn't meant to be a review, just a news item announcing a new place. i have not eaten there yet but i cannot wait -- it sounds like exactly my kind of place, with the sustainable ingredients, the pizza, the authentic italian, that's all totally my cup of tea. i'll for sure eat there ASAP and report back

1 year, 11 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Billusa99

Billusa99 Anonymous

Aunt Bea... if this place is all that you say it is, me and Opie will be there ASAP.

We need more of this stuff here -- my wife and I can't wait to back you up. Thanks for the info!

1 year, 11 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

twisteddog

twisteddog Anonymous

Get back to me when a large mongrel Lithuanian comes to town.

1 year, 11 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Worzel_Gummidge

Worzel_Gummidge Anonymous

If the opening was delayed that long, and that many times, then it must be authentically Italian.

1 year, 11 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

ravenus Anonymous

This new spot, nonna, sounds interesting. Small, authentic and the current center of the universe. Slightly off course, I understand, by way of GoogleEarth of the former true center, Highland Park. I know Italians who can't cook an egg. But I know some who poach 'em in wine and meat stock. But not every day. Is this place the real deal? I love the daily whim menu notion. That's Italian and smart. Please Keep me posted about this joint.

1 year, 11 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

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