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Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Two years and counting in Oak Cliff

It's a comfortable place to be, but our stay has been anything but comfortable.

My family and I are celebrating our 2nd full year as residents of Dallas, more specifically Oak Cliff. For those who may be new to Dallas South, Oak Cliff is a predominantly African-American/Hispanic portion of Southern Dallas.

Last year I chronicled our first year in Oak Cliff, and I thought I would give an update here in '07.

I moved my family to Dallas two years ago for two reasons. 1) It was closer to our church and my son's school which are both in Oak Cliff as well as where my wife and I were working at the time. 2) Most of the causes and issues that I was interested in were in Dallas, so I wanted a Dallas address so that I could be a participator and not spectator.

The portion of the Cliff in which we reside has a heavy black population, though our neighborhood happens to be mostly Hispanic. The house we live in is close to what we had in the 'burbs, but there are a number of multi-family units surrounding us. A wiser real-estate investor would have been smart to buy in the Northern portion of Oak Cliff, but unfortunately that's not how I roll (Dallas SOUTH).

Many of my contemporaries who pontificate and prognosticate about our people do it from outside the community. It's a comfortable place to be, and though we are blessed to have a nice house and nice neighborhood, our stay has been anything but comfortable.

There has been little to no change from an economic development standpoint since we moved here. The big win is a new development on Illinois that is anchored by a Carnival grocery store. Wachovia, Starbucks, and Applebees are also tenants, but that's about 3 1/2 miles away from us. Should I count the porn shop that tried to move in to our community?

The broader the net is cast, the more some could make a case that Oak Cliff is progressing. My sample set is south of Illinois, and there has been little change there.

Among the positives I count the new Hampton-Illinois Branch Library, Friendship-West Baptist Church and Conference Center, UNT-Dallas, and the new development at Wheatlan and Hampton anchored by Target. As a side note, I'm sure once the new Target opens next spring, the old one on Cockrell Hill will shut down, so it nets out.

There are still no signs of a movie theater south of downtown. We have to go to Lancaster (you can't beat $4 and $2.50 matinees) or Cedar Hill if we want to catch the latest flicks.

Most of our shopping is done in Cedar Hill or Arlington unless I'm in a West Village or NorthPark Mall kind of mood. Southwest Center Mall continues to go downhill. I've been working on a post about that situation for a few months.

What has been most troubling is the physical state of our predominantly African-American neighborhoods. As my grandmother once said to me, "I'm not telling you what I heard, I'm telling you what I know." This is a firsthand account of lower to lower-middle class neighborhoods: we are struggling.

I think what has been most disappointing is to have to see young men walking around daily, DAILY, with their pants hanging down and their drawers showing. It's not an every now and then thing or an exception, it is an all day er' day occurrence.

I keep coming back to a day this summer when I was driving up Highway 67. Three young black brothers were walking on the feeder road when one of them mooned the passersby. His two boys dapped him up as if he had just done something of major significance. I thought I was going to be sick to my stomach.

Were these isolated incidents it may not affect me so bad. But again, this is a constant image that I see and so do many young boys in the neighborhood. I in turn wonder what they think when I'm pumping gas in my suit and tie as they hold the pump with one hand and the top of their shorts up with the other.

So many people litter in Oak Cliff. At stop lights I have to look and make sure there are not signs that say "Throw trash here" because so many drivers and passengers discard their items as they wait.

Outside of Kiest, our parks are atrocious. It surprises me that the City of Dallas would even place their name on some of these plots of dirt and worn out equipment. You should see how many softball fields lack an outfield fence. I will take a moment to credit the public/private partnership of Hawaiian Falls Dallas, which hails itself as America's only inner city waterpark (it's not in the inner city but it is in a black neighborhood in Dallas).

And I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the occasional gun fire that we hear in the Cliff. On a night at home alone a couple of months ago, I heard clack, clack, clack, clack, clack, clack, clack: seven gun shots. I can say that the gun shots and ghetto birds have decreased from year one to year two.

I'm still happy with our decision to move here and I think my wife would say the same. My son spends 2 less hours a week in the car due to a shorter commute to and from school.

Dallas is moving forward, and new leaders are emerging. Tom Leppert and Mike Davis were not yet on the scene when we moved here two years ago, and who knew Dwaine Caraway would rise from the ashes? Casey Thomas has brought new life into the NAACP Dallas branch and survived an attempted coup on his presidency.

I'm in for the long haul, but I do have to evaluate yearly the risk/reward factor of keeping my family in the Cliff. I take pride in our Dallas address, and I'm not totally sure why. It is my belief that if we as an African-American community are going to change our community, it must occur from the inside out, not the outside in.

I respect my philosophers who hypothesize from outside the 'hood, but I'm not really trying to hear most of what ya'll are talking about. We need your voice, even if it is in the distance, but it would be better served if you were HERE with us. Ache!

Pegasus News content partner - Dallas South Blog
Pegasus News content partner - Dallas South Blog


  • Staff
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  • Anonymous

DC, says:

Where exactly are you going with this? The physical state, as in infrastructure or people's pants?

You want people to be in the neighborhood with you where there is litter and gunplay?

You say you want change from the inside? You have this content space where you could promote your neighborhood association rather than point out how far you live from Starbucks.

I live in north Oak Cliff. It's clean, quiet and convenient to downtown. People don't defecate on the street outside like they did at my place downtown. It's really rather nice and it doesn't have anything to do with the race of my neighbors.

Anonymous

2 years, 2 months ago
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JW Richard, says:

Shawn, as another Oak Cliff resident, I live in a spot where there are at least three neighborhood organizations OUTSIDE of the churches in the area. This would be a great way to gather people of like mind that are interested in making neighborhood changes but may not be interested in church.

On a side note, I do find it humorous that the picture used as a part of your logo is a building in "North" Oak Cliff :-)

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2 years, 2 months ago
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Michael Davis, says:

As mentioned in the post, he's not talking about North Oak Cliff. That's always been a separate area that which includes Kessler Park and other pockets of affluence.

Shawn IS working on issues that affect the rest of Oak Cliff by continuing to write and be active in issues that matter to the community that surrounds him. Or should I say us, as I live here in Oak Cliff as well.

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2 years, 2 months ago
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Rawlins Gilliland, says:

It’s like a second job explaining Dallas. Today's lesson; Oak Cliff. Which yes, by definition is 'across the Trinity'. (River. Try to keep up here). Therein, as Mike points out, lies initially North Oak Cliff, then continuing south is central Oak Cliff proper (Bishop Arts, etc) then west of that, West Oak Cliff (Think Hampton going to Loop 12 en route to Grand Prairie) and then South Oak Cliff which is no less an actual name for a sector of this city than East Dallas or Oak Lawn/Uptown. East of I-30, north of I-20, west of I-45.

And PS: North of Oak Cliff (think Singleton) and south of Irving lies West Dallas. PS: East of the river and/or I-45 lies South Dallas (east of South Oak Cliff and south of Thornton Freeway/I-30) whose eastern border is the Trinity Forest. And east of that...east of the Forest, lies Southeast Dallas which deadends then into Mesquite/Balch Springs. Voila! That's the 'Southern Sector primer.

Got all that?

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2 years, 2 months ago
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DC, says:

Look, all I am saying is that this post goes from

"What has been most troubling is the physical state..."

to

"I think what has been most disappointing is [pants]"

and concludes with "..it must occur from the inside out, not the outside in."

As a content partner getting the front headline, this could have been a forum to start with the problems in the neighborhood and drop some real controversy or lay out some concrete suggestions for where people should get involved.

Anonymous

2 years, 2 months ago
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Scott Doyle, says:

People move b/c of their church's locale? How hardcore are you into [insert denomination]?

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2 years, 2 months ago
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Clay213, says:

My suggestion, and this goes for everyone living in troubled neighborhoods, is pick up the trash.

It's easy. Everyone can do it, but most just go by it and wait for someone else to pick it up.

That's just a small step that can make a big difference in the appeal and attitude of a neighborhood.

Anonymous

2 years, 2 months ago
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Scott Doyle, says:

I was actually pretty surprised to see where the UNT-Dallas campus is located. I'll still stick with North Dallas - y'all have fun trying to enrich the lives of people who are fine the way things are. =)

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2 years, 2 months ago
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Mike Orren, says:

DC says:

As a content partner getting the front headline, this could have been a forum to start with the problems in the neighborhood and drop some real controversy or lay out some concrete suggestions for where people should get involved.

To be fair, Shawn had no idea when he wrote this that it would be the homepage lead or that we'd pick it up at all. Like many of our content partners, he writes all of his material on his blog, which we subscribe to via RSS and then pick up things as we see fit -- generally when they're local and interesting.

Don't know if that makes any difference in how something gets written, but thought it worth mentioning in context.

Staff

2 years, 2 months ago
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Rawlins Gilliland, says:

Scott, the placement of the new UNT campus is in one of the most beautiful pieces of real estate in Dallas County, at the southern base of South Dallas at I-20, and to the west of the southern most Trinity Forest on a hilly set of escarpments.

The truth is, few have any clue when we are talking anything west or south of DT and east or south of _1-30. I have lived decades in southeast Dallas, enjoying a high quality of living, a lower crime rate than most who live here in North Dallas, etc. Oak Cliff is a myriad of sectors within a sector and so too for South and most certainly Southeast Dallas.

Ignorance is bliss when your wife is having an affair with the gardener; not when one is discussing multiple co-existing realities of Dallas living.

Saluting those who are trying to draw attention to the possible instead of the posturable like Michael Davis and Sawn Williams: As opposed to the following:

Experience tells me that the smug highly opinionated people talking Dallas' quality of life issues, and their own feelings for their city life here, are generally formulated initially by the real estate person who sold you your house (who was also from somewhere else) when you moved here, and so too those with whom you run, all of whom also tend to have moved here relatively recently, and are by nature clueless about any but their own 'territory'. This is not a crime, but it's dull as hell when one is trying to have a two-way conversation about the panorama that is this (home town) Dallas.

My guess is that in 20-30 years, much of North Dallas will have become the least desirable zips in town. I mean, I can recall not that long ago when the Bachman Lake area, and Webbs Chapel/Northwest Hwy areas were the MOST coveted status 'new' happening places to buy and dine. Cities are like looking out the window of a train car......the view of the world changes constantly. Latest example: the 'Cedars' where my family lived when they first moved here. It was THE place to live for affluent Jews. (My parent were Epicopalean) Then, after WW2, that was a multi-family disaster waiting to happen. And the result is it became the ghetto. Pure and simple, the entire time I was growing up...And now, it is in flux. Who knows how that will play out. Witness the grand evolution of Deep Ellum from the ashes to 'hip-happening' to struggling and on life supports.

And PS: I grew up just about 5 doors from the 'Strip' of restaurant dreams in East Dallas........the Henderson Porch/Cuba Libre/Fireside Pies, etc. The entire time I lived there...20 plus years...it was the 'wrong side of the tracks', East Dallas was the pejorative term (like Pleasant Grove later became) for a low life sleeze arena (it was not but in places) and I had to listen to all that posturing. Now the house I grew up in is selling for a half million, that commercial strip that was, for 40 years, a kiss of death locale (we buried a million restaurants and shops) is now very 'in'. If you need any other reality check updates from Rawlins, do not hesitate to ask.

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2 years, 2 months ago
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Rawlins Gilliland, says:

I wanted to make sure that the way I said that sentence about Michael Davis and Shawn Williams is clear: That was saying THEY are discussing realities and the possible, as opposed to POSTURING as I describe others as routinely doing. Re-reading the above post, I was unsure if that was clear. I consider what they both write to be part of the solutions.

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2 years, 2 months ago
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kepgeek, says:

Keep writing ... it is interesting to see your point of view.

Anonymous

2 years, 2 months ago
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Scott Doyle, says:

I grew up in a small town near McKinney, and my parents live in the sticks. So, I'm already partial to the northern side of the metroplex simply b/c we never ventured south of Dallas (and never all the way into Dallas, really).

No doubt many areas of North Dallas will be less desirable in 20-30 years...I doubt I'll be living here at the time, anyhow. I think one of the bigger issues with growth up north is that businesses seem to be following suit. Not that y'all care...I'm sure you'd rather revamp what you've got than worry about a huge influx.

What are good places to eat down south, btw?

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2 years, 2 months ago
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Clay213, says:

*Witness the grand evolution of Deep Ellum from the ashes to 'hip-happening' to struggling and on life supports.*

The pulse in Deep Ellum is beating quite nicely. But perhaps I have a different view as a resident, and not someone who comes from another part of town just to party here. Not saying that is you, but it is true of the majority of people that claim Deep Ellum is 'dying' or 'dead'.

True there are a lot of empty clubs and store fronts.. but you know what? Neighborhoods change. And Deep Ellum doesn't need the weekend warrior coming down here and raising hell anymore. I've heard all the stories, about how the streets were packed with people going to clubs.. Those people have moved on.

There are people moving here everyday. I walk around and see places being fixed up. New construction. Some places are closing.. others are opening.

I don't want to live anywhere else in Dallas.

Anonymous

2 years, 2 months ago
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Rawlins Gilliland, says:

Clay, FYI, I agree. My comment is about how a place is dead and about to be buried, then goes through a rennaisance and becomes hot and 'in', and then gets dropped by the masses of flocking see-and-be-seen types.

That said, Deep Ellum has not one but three (or is it four) eras in the last 20 years; the first was the Club Claearview era of migrating happening rent-a-space raves. Late 80s. Into the Greenwich Village heyday of the 90s, with Club DaDa going strong and Deep Ellum Cafe a hip alternative mainstay restaurant and the creme de la....Eduardo's, later reincarnated as the Monica's Aca Y Alla, where every Sunday night you could find me dancing salsa for 4 hours. For 9 years.

But then it became the younger, rougher, rowdier, lowder, ruder....... and the edge went from being hip to being threatened. Add to this some highly publicized violent incidents, and voila.

Now what I sense in Deep Ellum is the regenerating aftermath. I'm a huge fan of the Angry Dog Bar (try the BLT), Twisted Root Burgers that I learned about on Pegasus...and of course the staples, Cafe Brazil and the venerable Monica's.

So my 'life supports' reference was to the huge number of businesses that folded that are missed, when the fortunes, however generated, came and went. What you love about it is valid. But those who want a sophisticated romp in the sexy twilight of alternative memories, it is not the crowd controled teens on Saturday night I miss.

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2 years, 2 months ago
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Susan Thornton, says:

Scott,

Tejano, Morelia, Hattie's, Cosmo Rouge (fabulous Sunday brunch with bottomless mimosas), Hunky's, Grill 400 (friendly bar and great fried catfish), coffee at Nodding Dog, the new Tillman's, Chan Thai, Beckley's Brewhouse, Kavala. Those are just the places I know, and there are many more that others, I'm sure, can add. Come down and see how nice it is here. 1st Thursday at Bishop Arts is tomorrow - the shops will be open later and wine will be served.

And, as far as North OC being Kessler, etc. ("affluent"), I live in El Tivoli Place just north of Davis and west of Hampton, a WWII neighborhood built for the officers at the naval station in Grand Prairie during the war. Not affluent by any stretch of the imagination, but a true multicultural neighborhood where I feel very safe.

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2 years, 2 months ago
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Billusa99, says:

My guess is that in 20-30 years, much of what has been posted-comments here will have become the least desirable read in town.

Keep on truckin' Shawn, and don't mind the southern wind.

Anonymous

2 years, 2 months ago
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Shawn Williams, says:

To be honest, I wanted to get my thoughts out close to the 2 year anniversary and as long as this post was, (very long for me) in doesn't cover half of my true experience in South Oak Cliff.

I mean Kiest Park is nice, but it could be so much better. AAFES (http://www.aafes.com) is one of the biggest employers in my immediate neighborhood, why not more? Why are Burger King and Williams Chicken the only place close for their employees to eat? Don't get me started on Kimball High School (or Carter).

One of the hidden gems in Oak Cliff is Dallas National Golf Club. I (and most of you) couldn't get withing a mile of there if I wanted to, unless Avery Johnson took me.

I'm glad I live here, but it's not easy or convenient. I live here mostly because I feel like the kids in the area need to see positive images, like a man raising his family, in order to aspire to do the same. Believe it or not some kids within a 2 mile radius of me go days without seeing a husband, a wife, and a child/children.

And finally, I had no idea Mike and the gang would run this where they did or I may have put it together a little differently. It was a scattershoot at best, but an honest scattershoot to say the least. And the point about the North Oak Cliff image on my header image is well taken, but funny.

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2 years, 2 months ago
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DC, says:

Well, as the site gets more readers, it might be worth giving some of the 'headliners' a heads up.

Anonymous

2 years, 2 months ago
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