Johnny_Stecchino Anonymous

has Aurora really been open 5 years? really?

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Billusa99 Anonymous

Here in Santa Fe, all the buzzzzzzz amongst the foodie beezzzzzz is: Avner has actually stayed in a place more than 16 months?!

Salut~!

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

mizery Anonymous

Why are there so many Avner naysayers? Yes, perhaps he is not always accurate as to his history, but do you think the powers behind other Dallas chefs are either? I've never seen anyone dumping on Dean Fearing for the promotion of the Mansion's tortilla soup, which was introduced there by Avner, who also earned the hotel its first five-star rating. Mostly the press seems to follow the big guy's PR blitz's. For example, see Texas Monthly's slavish review of Fearing's, which claims he put the Mansion on the map. And Patricia Sharpe should know better.

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Scott Anonymous

I thought The Mansion got its fifth Mobil star (for the restaurant) in the mid-'90s. That would've been on Fearing's watch.

Samuel was at The Mansion for a few years. Fearing helmed the restaurant for more than two decades. Samuel's talent aside, it's not hard to understand why people would associate the restaurant with Fearing, rather than Samuel.

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

mizery Anonymous

Scott: The 5th star I was talking about was from The News. You could argue that from the day it opened, under the auspices of New York's 21 Club, the Mansion was a hit and would have been popular with Dallasites no matter what the kitchen served.

As for Dean carrying it for 20 years, sadly it has always been my impression that The Mansion carried him. He is a good chef and perhaps the most congenial one in Dallas. To meet him is to like him. But he far from the best chef in town and it was mainly by Rosewood's clout that he has been considered so. At some point, the Mansion stars have been lowered by every local rating publication, including Texas Monthly. I think I was the first to slash them, and the reaction was prety intense. I had a lunch with Rosewood top honchos, at their insistence, that was not unlike you might imagine it would be to dine with Karl Rove or Dick Cheney after criticing Bush.

I often think Dean might have done better, more creative things if he hadn't been shielded by Rosewood. His initial fame, after all, didn't come from the Mansion. It came from a New York Times story by Craig Claibourne about his food at a restaurant owned by Tom Agnew, who like Avner was also a bad boy of the restaurant scene but one that had great influence.

Sorry this is so long. I get riled up on this subject, probably because I see Avner as a regular guy who made it despite the machine. In his first Mansion cookbook, Dean wrote Avner completely out as one of the founders of Southwestern cuisine, reducing the "gang of five" to the "gang of four." Of the other three founders, Robert Del Grande, Ann Lindsay Greer and Stephan Pyles, only Pyles was big enough to defend Avner's place.

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Scott Anonymous

Excellent background info, Mizery. I'll have to track down that Claiborne article.

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Billusa99 Anonymous

I always thought that Mark Miller was one of the "so-called founders" of southwestern cuisine. His (southwestern) Fourth Street Grill opened in '79 in Berkeley, CA and then he moved on to his Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe in '87.

Cafe Annie opened in '81 or '82 in Houston and Del Grande started cooking there after it opened. He was a PhD in Biochem, not a chef and was not the original founder. It belonged to his girlfriend/future wife's sister and her husband.

Routh Street Cafe didn't open till about '88, no??

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

mizery Anonymous

Scott: If it will help in your search, I think recipe Claiborne used with his article was for yellow bell pepper soup.

Billusa: You are right that Miller is considered one of the first Southwestern chefs. Perhaps I should have described the gang of five as the Texas chefs credited with pioneering Southwestern.

I believe Routh Street Cafe opened much earlier than 1988, probably early '80s. I'd have to check,

Teresa: Re your visit to Fearing's. Did you try the signature rib-eye, or see it going to a table near you? Shades of the cowboy rib-eye at Star Canyon!

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

mizery Anonymous

Bill: I just did a quick google. Routh Street opened in 1983.

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Billusa99 Anonymous

Thanks mizery!

PS... if you ever have a chance to eat at the 'chef's counter' that lines along the front of the open kitchen at Coyote Cafe, then DO SO!

2 years, 1 month ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )