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Wednesday, April 2, 2008

New product Wednesday, in Dallas stores: Haagen Dazs is on a honey kick

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There's a weird thing going on right now with Haagen Dazs and honey. The company has gone bonkers for honey-flavored ice cream products at a time when there's a huge crisis with the bee population in this country.

See if you can spot the theme: Honey Vanilla Yogurt, Hawaiian Lehua Honey and Sweet Cream, Honey Vanilla Bee.

See if you can spot the theme: Honey Vanilla Yogurt, Hawaiian Lehua Honey and Sweet Cream, Honey Vanilla Bee.

1. First came its "artisan" flavor, Hawaiian Lehua honey and sweet cream, part of its Reserve line introduced last year. This tastes like butter. It has butter in the ingredient list, and that's what it tastes like. Butter.

2. Then came a frozen yogurt called Vanilla Honey & Granola, in development for some time (I suspect this was before they realized that having a honey-flavored ice cream might seem politically incorrect). The yogurt tastes like vanilla, while the "granola" is like cookie-dough pellets with a mild cinnamon flavor. Needs more pellets.

At this point, the company came out swinging for the bees by, counter-intuitively, adding a third honey flavor to its regular line:

3. Honey Vanilla Bee. Tastes just like the Honey flavor Haagen Dazs discontinued in the '90s: sweet, sortof honey-ish, subtle, possibly dull. HD claims that a portion of the proceeds from this product will "help the honey bees through university research."

Meanwhile, the company launched a media campaign announcing its donation to two universities for bee research. If you measure a media campaign by Google hits, then this campaign has succeeded. Thanks to the lethal combination of press releases and lazy journalists, you'll find thousands of sites and media outlets spouting identical words from the press release, with the message being: "Support the Haagen-Dazs loves Honey Bees program!" -- by buying their ice cream, of course.

Your artisan Lehua honey ice cream on the left has a honey ripple deal while your regular Honey on the right has not.

Your artisan Lehua honey ice cream on the left has a honey ripple deal while your regular Honey on the right has not.

Funding bee research is in Haagen Dazs' own best interest, since it says that 40% of its flavors rely on honey. The total donation is $250,000, and it's split into two: $150,000 to Penn State and $100,000 to UC Davis.

What does $100,000 get you on the research front? According to salary.com, the average salary for a "Researcher II - Academic" is $62,117. This story says UC Davis will use approximately half of that $100K gift to hire ONE researcher who will do a ONE-YEAR stint, "conducting problem-solving research in honey bee biology, health, and pollination issues."

How diligent is Haagen Dazs' marketing campaign? When I wrote previously about the Reserve line, I stumbled across the company's profile on Wikipedia, and was surprised to find a paragraph stating that Haagen Dazs had begun to inject more air into its ice cream in 2007. It read as follows:

Starting in 2007 Häagen Dazs has increased the amount of air they incorporate into the product. They claim that this does not change the "mouth feel". Adding additional air to a "super-premium" brand lowers the quality of the product.

On March 17, I called HD's media department and asked a staffer named Crystal Hubbard if HD was increasing the amount of air in its ice cream. She'd never heard of Wikipedia, but when she hit the site, she said, THAT'S NOT TRUE. She expressed her intent to have the passage deleted, and said she'd have someone from the product line call me back; no one ever did. Within a few days, that paragraph had been deleted and replaced with this:

In 2008, the company announced the donation of $250,000 to Pennsylvania State University and University of California, Davis to help research the bee colony collapse disorder (CCD) phenomenon. The company will also sell a limited-edition flavor, Vanilla Honey Bee, with part of the proceeds also going to fund research on CCD.

I think if Haagen Dazs really wanted to help the bees, it would do as "RKO" suggests on this Planet Green.com entry:

Explain to me how they're helping CCD, and how eating MORE honey and taking it away from the bees is helping them at all. Maybe if we just stop stealing their honey and replacing it with HFCS; stop forcing them into chemically-laden environments; and stop the notion that they're insects and therefore don't matter and are not an integral part of our ecosystem on which the vast majority of our agricultural production lies, THAT would be helping.

It's absolutely wonderful that they care, and I support them raising awareness and everything they're doing, but couldn't they do it without ironically exploiting the bees? Make an ice cream with agave nectar and market it to raise awareness for honey alternatives, that would make much more sense.


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Comments

Kevin Kunreuther Verified

Greentards getting hysterical over something they do not understand at all, i.e the balance of nature. Copy and paste to browser: http://www.slate.com/id/2170305/pagen...

3 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

kirk Anonymous

The only thing that is worse than the "lethal combination of press releases and lazy journalists" is a company that would hire a media relations staffer who has never heard of Wikipedia.

That's if you exclude someone who would call a person concerned about the environment a "greentard."

3 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Gwen DuVal Staff

Here is another source, check it out for yourself.

http://www8.nationalacademies.org/onp...

3 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

randyoliver Anonymous

Dear Teresa,

I am a beekeeper with 500 colonies and a writer and researcher on bees (my website is http://www.scientificbeekeeping.com). I am on the forefront of Earth-friendly beekeeping, and write about natural mite control, good bee nutrition, and careful bee husbandry. As such, Haagen-Dazs has asked me to be a technical consultant on their Bee Board.

I find your comment about taking honey from bees to be ill informed and wish for you to set the story straight with your readers. Healthy colonies generally produce a surplus of honey, and if it's not taken from them, they would actually crowd their brood nest and not survive the winter! Good commercial beekeepers are careful to leave an adequate supply of honey for their bees.

Beekeepers only feed their bees syrup if absolutely necessary, since feeding is an expensive proposition. As far as HFCS, the industry is moving instead back toward using pure sugar syrup. This is more expensive, but the bees respond better.

I'm surprised when you criticize Häagen-Dazs for buying honey! The best possible way to help American bees and beekeepers is to purchase domestic honey, rather than cheap, imported "funny honey" from China. I checked, and Häagen-Dazs uses good old Midwestern clover honey produced by American beekeepers. This greatly helps beekeepers to survive!

I can tell you that beekeepers and bee researchers are greatly appreciative of H-D's donation toward bee research. Häagen-Dazs was the first industry to exhibit such generosity, and were quickly followed in kind by a donation from Bert's Bees. Perhaps others will follow their example.

Sincerely,

Randy Oliver

California

3 months, 2 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Scott Doyle Verified

Randy, does the surplus result from adjusting to people and other outsiders taking their precious booty? Seems odd they'd create a potentially detrimental surplus on their own. Perhaps they average what's taken from cartoon bears and hedge against it?

Also, while I'm sure you're all very appreciative of research monies, methinks TG's point is that companies typically don't 'make it rain' unless they stand to benefit. Not to say they're money-grubbing jerks who only spend money to make money, but you'd be hard-pressed to find R&D cash randomly thrown around.

3 months, 2 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

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