Restaurant review: Abacus

by Staff of of Gay List Daily

Glutton, party of two? Your table is waiting.

When it comes time to celebrate an anniversary, birthday, or the bi-weekly ritualistic dumping of your current boyfriend in front of the entire dance floor at S4, live it up right at Abacus.

The McKinney avenue fine-dining legend has survived nearly a decade in the turbulent (and fickle) Dallas dining market for one reason and one reason only: food, as imagined by Chef Kent Rathbun, that’s so perfectly executed and flirtatious on the palate that it’s practically beyond compare.

And the newly redesigned space is more stunning than ever. (OK, that’s two reasons.)

So what better way to enjoy the edible artistry that is Abacus cuisine than by sampling a little bit of everything? Think of their nine-course tasting menu as a grown-up combo meal, with wine instead of soda and foie gras instead of fries. Damn them for not having a drive-thru!

But before you settle in for your night of dining (plan to set aside at least two or three hours), you’ve got to try the newest sensation since their famous Lobster Shooters: the “Bacon and Eggs.” And yes, the quotes are there for a reason, because this ain’t yo mama’s greasy meat ’n huevos.

These are the thickest cuts of Niman Ranch Chipotle Bacon you’ve ever seen (think slab of steak rather than strip of bacon) accompanied by a fluffy, buttery-tasting scrambled duck egg with black truffle atop a piece of crusty bread.

Alert the media. This pig’s not just flying, it’s left the earth’s atmosphere altogether.

As for the nine courses, rest assured the portions are perfectly sized for getting just enough flavor sensation to crave more, but not so huge you get full, or worse, bored.

With the addition of wine pairings, six of your courses will be perfectly accompanied by selections from around the globe. Just remember, this is the good stuff, not the kind you usually lick off a go-go boy’s chest.

Dinner at Abacus, whether you opt for the full tasting menu or just a modest three- or four-course event, is a decadent experience worth every dollar – and then some. After all, you now have license to brag to your friends at work the next day as they peel away the wrapper on their Lean Cuisines.

Would you like a little white truffle oil with that?

9-course tasting menu: $95 (with wine pairings: add $50-$195, depending on level of wine selected); www.kentrathbun.com/abacus.html

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