Summer menu at Dallas’ Pyramid Room gets fresh

by Staff of Gay List Daily

Once upon a time, the Pyramid Room at the Fairmont Dallas was the be-all and end-all of fine dining in the city. Sure, that was way before our time, but we’ve heard the stories (and seen the cave drawings). We do, however, remember going just before its big makeover last year. And to describe it as “vintage old-lady” was an understatement. Rather than being trapped in the past for the sake of fueling our desire for nostalgia and comfort, it just seemed stale and past its prime.

Well, that was then. The new Pyramid Restaurant has been 100% chic-ified for our demanding 21st century sensibilities. To be sure, the dinner price-point is on the high side, so this restaurant definitely falls into the special-occasion category for most of us. (At least when Sugardaddy forgets to leave our allowance on the nightstand.)

But the hip décor is just the tip of this Pyramid. What makes this place really special is Chef JW Foster and his “fresh market” approach (not to mention his movie-star good looks). Not only does he try to use only organic, local and sustainable ingredients, he’s also downtown Dallas’ answer to Mr. Green Jeans.

Chef Foster toils in the hotel’s 2000-square-foot herb and vegetable garden on the rooftop terrace to bring diners produce that’s about as local as humanly possible. And he has plans to make the garden even bigger.

The herbs and vegetables are put to great use in his new summer menu, in everything from salads to cocktails. But there’s more to enjoy than just the leafy greens. The Soft Shell Crab Taco with roasted salsa was a huge hit at our table. Ditto the Heirloom Tomato Salad. In fact, the starters are all so universally good and light, we’d be happy making a full meal out of two or three. At least as long as the temperature stays somewhere near that of Hell’s equator.

But if you need something more substantial, Chef Foster’s take on Peking Duck is amazing. Lobster Ravioli will make you forget you ever liked that canned Chef Boy-ar-whatever, too. Yet for us, it was all about the Rib Eye.

Summer, schmummer. We love our meat. And this meat was good to the bone.

An impressive dessert list ends the evening on a high note, but when Churros Fondue is on the menu, are there really any other choices? Fried cinnamon pastries dipped in cayenne spiced chocolate sauce make us very, very happy.

And a trip to the revitalized Pyramid Restaurant will make you downright ecstatic.