La Palapa Veracruzana shows how good you can eat on Dallas’ Jefferson Boulevard

First course at special meal at La Palapa Veracruzana: chiplachol de jaiva -- spicy yet pristine seafood soup. The broth was thin, but with enough chile heat to make it feel full-bodied and satisfying. Even this small cup came with a chunk of crab claw, pleasingly saturated with the hot broth and fun to crack open.

Mole Veracruzana. People are always asking where you can get good mole. Here. This had all the smoky, fruity mystery that a good mole brings, ladled over enchiladas filled with braised hen. Tasted like chicken, only better.

La Palapa Veracruzana empanadas filled with chopped shrimp. These empanadas had terrific "weight" and texture. They were substantial but not heavy, fried and lightly crisp but not greasy. As an aside, don't you love those seashell-themed plates? There was a kind of mix-and-match deal with the plates that was very homey and appealing.

La Palapa Veracruzana spokeswoman said this dish was adobo, a preparation applied to pork, poultry, or fish cooked in vinegar, garlic and oil. It was like a stew, with big chunks of meat that only needed a prod with the fork to make them fall apart, with extra-white white rice.

Final course at La Palapa Verazcruzana was tilapia al vapor. Vapor = steam. Tilapia was steamed inside enclosure made of tin foil, along with carrots, corn, broccoli, pepper, and plenty of butter and herbs. Fish was moist and juicy from the liquid, and the vegetables were ideally tender. Not at all what you might expect to find at a Mexican restaurant.