Restaurant review: Lumi Empanada & Dumpling Kitchen in Dallas

by Iris Franks of of What We're Doing

As soon as we hit the door of Lumi Empanada & Dumpling Kitchen, we were greeted by a steady samba beat. Before our meal was over, we discovered Dallas now has a little bit of São Paulo and Southeast Asia in Uptown.

Fresh Signature Cocktails

The balmy weather drew us to the wraparound porch on this cottage turned restaurant the first time, and the tight summery cocktails lured us back. I passed on drinks during our first visit, but regretted the choice after watching the Wife rave about the fresh Lumi Lychee martini. This concoction of mango rum and cranberry has a plump lychee floating inside.

I didn't make the same mistake on the second visit. This time I had to start with the thirst-quenching caipirinha, known as the national drink of Brazil. The Wife sipped on a fusion of sake and watermelon Pucker, which tasted like summer. On both trips, our cocktails were complimented by the crisp, light shrimp chips we noshed while perusing the menu.

Small Plates Rule

Lumi specializes in small plates with the stars being the empanada and dumpling selections. They are perfect for sharing and trying out new things. The dumplings, steamed or pan-fried, are deliciously crafted and non-greasy.

A few notable combinations highlight key Southeast Asian spices and flavors. Our pan-fried Curry Chicken Dumplings were stuffed with tender, moist chicken and a coconut sauce for dipping. Steamed Shrimp Dumplings came lightly seasoned with cilantro, filled with plump shrimp and crunchy jicama for texture, and paired with a delicate sweet and sour sauce. My favorites were the pan-fried Five Spice Duck and Leek Dumplings. For small packages they packed lots of flavor with perfectly juicy duck dipped in a tangy plum sauce.

Then there are the empanadas. This empanada veers slightly from the traditional. Instead of a flaky pastry-like crust, Lumi's family recipe calls for a seasoned breading reminiscent of finely ground Japanese panko. They are fried, but not greasy and served with mouth-watering sauces. We shared a vegetarian Spinach Mozzarella Portabello combo but missed the portabello in the filling. The gooey spinach and mozzarella and crunchy savory crust made up for this minor flaw. Our winner was the fat Shrimp and Crab Empanda with ancho sauce and cilantro cream sauces.

As far as entrees go, Lumi offers more hearty tapas-style plates. We savored the Ahi Nachos served on delicate homemade chips and flavored up with green onions. Mild chunks of Ahi, jalapeños and a creamy wasabi aoli added heat to each small bite.

Our goal on these first visits were to devour the empanadas and dumplings, but the Wife and I are not finished. Still to come is the Picanha Brazilian Steak and Rack of Lamb for protein connoisseurs like me.

The Finish

Small plates have the advantage of allowing you room for a third course. Recommended by our server was the White Chocolate Crème Brulée, one of my favorite desserts. Lumi makes one on my top ten list of crème brulées. This one has a fine translucent glaze, which we easily cracked to fight over the rich surprise.

Cool Decor, Thoughtful Service

Lumi takes advantage of our city's weather and Dallasites love of patios. What sets Lumi apart from the older bunch on the McKinney strip has to be the inviting porch off a lawn.

Inside, we were transported from the traffic noises on McKinney to summer vacation. A soft, rhythmic samba soundtrack, light hardwood interior and black and white photography completed the postcard.

Manager and host An Bui greeted us both times with his warm smile. We had cocktails, menus and something to nosh quickly on our visits. Our servers were attentive and knowledgeable about the menu and ingredients. Bui and wife tag-team with servers to ensure tables are well covered. It's clear this team wants to build relationships with diners and keep them coming back for more.

Our prediction: The prime porch scene, well-executed cocktails and plates, and mix of Latin and Asian beats will make Lumi our go-to spot for the warm weather months. Get there before everyone discovers the "new kid" on McKinney.

Recommendation: TRY IT

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