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Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Checking out the vegetarian tasting menu at Nana at Dallas’ Hilton Anatole Hotel

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Nana carrot marmalade with Manchego and Idiazabal cheese logs

Nana carrot marmalade with Manchego and Idiazabal cheese logs

— If you're a curious diner with a C-note to burn, you're prime fodder for the culinary exercise known as the chef's tasting menu, where you're served a series of small-bite courses that showcase the creativity of a chef -- like sitting down and watching a musician perform.

For an even more rarefied experience, there is the vegetarian tasting menu, no meat or fish, just vegetables.

In February, Anthony Bombaci, chef at Nana at Dallas' Hilton Anatole, began offering two vegetarian tasting menus: one vegan, the other lacto-vegetarian (with dairy products), in both 7- and 10-course options.

While it's true that this country has an estimated 7.3 million vegans and/or vegetarians, vegetarian tasting menus are less about skipping meat and more about witnessing a chef's chops. With meat, fish, and fowl, it's pretty simple: don't overcook. But vegetables, with their broad range of textures and color, offer room for creativity. Vegetarian dishes have the potential to be a lot more interesting than a slab of grilled meat.

Since the launch of its vegetarian tastings, which are available nightly, Nana sees "maybe a couple" of diners per week ordering them, according to a restaurant spokesman. More often, customers cherry-pick individual items rather than indulging in all 7 or 10 courses.

These photos reflect a meal consumed in mid-March, with one diner ordering the vegan and the other ordering the lacto version. For one 7-course vegan option, including wine and tip, it cost $155.

Side by side, the two options were nearly the same except that the lacto version invariably came with a clump of cheese atop the otherwise-identical dish. The "carrot marmalade", for example, came with passionfruit granite on the vegan, vs. a stack of cheese sticks on the lacto-vegetarian; I actually liked the vegan better.

Nana Mal Fatti -- hand rolled pasta, with ricotta, basil, pine nuts, and Parmigiano Reggiano. The pasta was incredibly fragile, subservient, one might say, to the vibrantly flavored olive oil.

Nana Mal Fatti -- hand rolled pasta, with ricotta, basil, pine nuts, and Parmigiano Reggiano. The pasta was incredibly fragile, subservient, one might say, to the vibrantly flavored olive oil.

Nana pasta with watercress-pesto sauce. The texture of the tubes was squishier than expected (usually at high-end restaurants, the pasta is firmer than what you might get at Olive Garden), but the sauce was generously dosed and clung to the pasta nicely.

Nana pasta with watercress-pesto sauce. The texture of the tubes was squishier than expected (usually at high-end restaurants, the pasta is firmer than what you might get at Olive Garden), but the sauce was generously dosed and clung to the pasta nicely.

Nana wild arugula salad did not suffer from the problem that wild arugula often suffers, which is scruffy, small leaves without enough expanse to be tender. These were tender and came with little olives and little gelatin-like squares made with agave.

Nana wild arugula salad did not suffer from the problem that wild arugula often suffers, which is scruffy, small leaves without enough expanse to be tender. These were tender and came with little olives and little gelatin-like squares made with agave.

Nana deconstructed green bean casserole with Honshimeji mushrooms, fried onion praline, and tempura green beans. Dumb "deconstructed" title but the crunch of the fried green beans was a neat contrast to the soft, wet mushrooms.

Nana deconstructed green bean casserole with Honshimeji mushrooms, fried onion praline, and tempura green beans. Dumb "deconstructed" title but the crunch of the fried green beans was a neat contrast to the soft, wet mushrooms.

Nana cucumber spaghetti with yogurt, pistachio oil pebbles, and scallions. My favorite dish of the meal because of the work involved in taking thinly slivered cucumber and turning it into "spaghetti". Its pasta-like texture was thrilling. The pistachio "pebbles" were sweet and salty, and melted in the mouth, like a softer version of honeycomb candy. And then the crunchy pistachios themselves. Whole thing was a treat.

Nana cucumber spaghetti with yogurt, pistachio oil pebbles, and scallions. My favorite dish of the meal because of the work involved in taking thinly slivered cucumber and turning it into "spaghetti". Its pasta-like texture was thrilling. The pistachio "pebbles" were sweet and salty, and melted in the mouth, like a softer version of honeycomb candy. And then the crunchy pistachios themselves. Whole thing was a treat.

Nana potato soup, i.e. liquid baked potato with potato chip "salt" and chive oil. That was of sour cream in the middle tells you that this was the lacto version; the vegan version came without. Either way, the soup was rather flat and thin. But "flat and thin" is still preferable to the gross, chunky potato soups you get at places like Chili's where they're loaded with fat and cheese.

Nana potato soup, i.e. liquid baked potato with potato chip "salt" and chive oil. That was of sour cream in the middle tells you that this was the lacto version; the vegan version came without. Either way, the soup was rather flat and thin. But "flat and thin" is still preferable to the gross, chunky potato soups you get at places like Chili's where they're loaded with fat and cheese.

Nana grilled leeks with glazed cipollini onions and Romesco sauce. The texture of the onions and leeks was irresistible, soft-yet-firm; and since they'd been grilled, the flavor was mellow and a bit smoky. The sauce and chopped hazelnuts were certainly welcome but this was really about the <em>allium</em>, which is the scientific word for oniony things. Anthony Bombaci, you are not the only one who can toss around fancy foodie terms.

Nana grilled leeks with glazed cipollini onions and Romesco sauce. The texture of the onions and leeks was irresistible, soft-yet-firm; and since they'd been grilled, the flavor was mellow and a bit smoky. The sauce and chopped hazelnuts were certainly welcome but this was really about the allium, which is the scientific word for oniony things. Anthony Bombaci, you are not the only one who can toss around fancy foodie terms.

Nana carrot marmalade with passion fruit granite and peanuts. The granita seemed like it was going to be boring, but the sharp, bright, cold crystals of sweet-tart passion fruit juice made the shredded carrot seem all the more mellow and welcoming.

Nana carrot marmalade with passion fruit granite and peanuts. The granita seemed like it was going to be boring, but the sharp, bright, cold crystals of sweet-tart passion fruit juice made the shredded carrot seem all the more mellow and welcoming.

Nana palate cleanser. More Jello-esque agave squares topped with cashews and thin shavings of coconut. Nice bowl.

Nana palate cleanser. More Jello-esque agave squares topped with cashews and thin shavings of coconut. Nice bowl.

Nana vinegar-marinated strawberries cream. Part of the lacto-vegetarian menu. Lovely etcetera but squarely in the realm of "I could do this at home".

Nana vinegar-marinated strawberries cream. Part of the lacto-vegetarian menu. Lovely etcetera but squarely in the realm of "I could do this at home".

Nana caramel banana laced in cocoa nibs, pecans, Valrhona Araguani chocolate, and mango granité. Cocoa nibs are a real foodie thing, and Araguani chocolate is <a href="http://www.chocolatetradingco.com/magazine.asp?id=193">described</a> as having "notes of licorice, raisin and chestnut". This dessert was pretty much dressed-up bananas, but in a good eleganty sort of way.

Nana caramel banana laced in cocoa nibs, pecans, Valrhona Araguani chocolate, and mango granité. Cocoa nibs are a real foodie thing, and Araguani chocolate is described as having "notes of licorice, raisin and chestnut". This dessert was pretty much dressed-up bananas, but in a good eleganty sort of way.

Valrhona Manjari Coulant with curry crema montada and peanut butter ice cream. <em>Coulant</em> is fancy word for "lava cake". Who knew. Speaking of, <em>crema montada</em> is basically Chantilly cream, which itself is already a pretty fancy term for cream that's been whipped and flavored. Jeez. How about "Chocolate lava cake with flavored cream and PB ice cream"? Thanks.

Valrhona Manjari Coulant with curry crema montada and peanut butter ice cream. Coulant is fancy word for "lava cake". Who knew. Speaking of, crema montada is basically Chantilly cream, which itself is already a pretty fancy term for cream that's been whipped and flavored. Jeez. How about "Chocolate lava cake with flavored cream and PB ice cream"? Thanks.

For an earlier rendition of Nana's vegetarian menus (and quite possibly an inspiration for Nana's current embrace of vegetarian menus), be sure to visit DallasFood.org.


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Comments

Russ Vandeveerdonk Verified

I like this, BUT STILL a big juicy pepper steak with a fully loaded baked potato still sounds great! But this looks like a nice try-out place, go Nana. I've been going there since the biggest USO Party was held there in 1984, Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant, Brooke Shields, Nancy Reagan and of course the Ross Perot family. Got meet Prince Charles there one night too with Princess Stephanie of Monaco. Nana is and always has been THE elegant spot for Dallas.

6 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

James Scott Verified

OMG, this takes me back to when I did this mid-April. I didn't have my camera at the time, or I would have taken pics to re-live the experience too.

I agree with all of your comments here TG, especially the liquid potato - I was definitely hoping for a lot more from that one.

One of my favorites was the tempura green-beans - I couldn't believe how perfectly those were cooked, no grease at all, but very crunchy.

Also, I think the carrot marmalade with the passion fruit granite was incredible. I ate with 3 carnivores who had a traditional meal and I had to fight them off of my 10 courses as plate after plate of food came out.

Glad you enjoyed it. It would be nice if more fine-dine places did this (heck, offer 1 dish, doesn't have to be a whole tasting menu). Slowly but surely maybe others will come around.

6 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Teresa Gubbins Staff

james, cool that you went and did this. the thing was pricey but i was glad i went

6 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

dadavark Anonymous

I was at the Anatole for DIFFA event last Saturday and requested the Vegan plate. It was superb! Meanwhile, my tablemates were less than impressed with the bland rubber chicken dish.

6 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

nina_chawla Anonymous

i'll stick with my Morning Star patties. We're in a recession!!!

6 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

Travis Bush Verified

"Meanwhile, my tablemates were less than impressed with the bland rubber chicken dish."

Betting that didn't go over well with the bourgeoisie..

6 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

alexander troup Verified

These dishes look like exspenive organic art projects you can eat if you on a diet or two...A/T, I Love whole foods, when i get too...

6 months ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

adkim Anonymous

"(usually at high-end restaurants, the pasta is firmer than what you might get at Olive Garden)" = GREATNESS

5 months, 3 weeks ago ( Link to this comment | Suggest removal )

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