Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Barbecue Report: Odom’s Bar-B-Que in Dallas

By Staff of Full Custom Gospel BBQ

DISCLAIMER: Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear. --THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT

Odom's Bar-B-Que

A harvest moon lit an otherwise dim parking lot. The scent of wood smoke hung heavy in the air as I passed through the door beside the prominent "NO GUNS" sign. A rag-tag clientele waited on mostly to-go orders as a clueless couple stood at the counter asking directions to Frisco. I patiently watched the Cowboys on the fuzzy TV in the corner until the equally fuzzy directions were doled out by the man behind the counter with a large gold grill. The cashier finally asked to take my order, and I requested a two-meat plate with brisket and ribs, and I was informed that the proper term was a "Mixed Plate". After a brief encounter with a harmless pan-handler in the parking lot, I was on my way home to feast.

The mixed plate consists of three slices of white bread, BBQ beans, potato salad, five slices of brisket, two large spare ribs cut in half, and thankfully, sauce on the side. All this for $8.20!

The brisket was mostly gray with the slightest of smoke lines. Any crust had tragically been discarded. While there was little smoke, the overall flavor was fine if a little roast-beefy. The slices were perfectly tender with well rendered fat.

Although the brisket fell shy of stellar, the ribs more than made up for it. These ribs had a slightly sweet rub that formed a beautiful deep red crust with excellent smoke flavor. The smoke flavor permeated this tender rib meat creating great flavor throughout. The only knock on these ribs was a thin layer of unrendered fat lying just below the incredible crust.

Although I'd suggest coming here just before the sun dips below the horizon, I would brave the dark of night for another order of those ribs.

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