Mena’s Tex Mex Grill passes margarita test for Carrollton resident

by Rebecca Marmaduke

CARROLLTON — In Texas, where Mexican restaurants are almost as plentiful as mesquite trees, what sets the best apart from the rest?

“The thing that defines a truly good Mexican restaurant,” said my husband Ben, scraping away at his plate, “is that it takes its food seriously.”

I tend to agree with him there, but I would also say that there is something just a little magical in the combination of food, ambiance, and service that is hard to pin down, but you know it when you see it.

Mena’s Tex-Mex Grill in Carrollton is one of those neighborhood gems that draws a devout bunch of regulars who come in for the margaritas and enchiladas and keep coming back because of that special magic. It’s not all that well-known outside the word-of-mouth following that continues to recruit more fans.

The Mena’s mojo was at work early on Halloween night when we stopped in for dinner at about 6:15. Being a native Texan, I definitely take my Mexican food seriously, and there are some key elements that have to be right for the rest of the experience to pass muster: the salsa, the enchiladas, and (most importantly) the margaritas. Mena’s rises splendidly to the basic challenge, but it also features some unique, delicious house specialties.

First came “The Margarita Test.” Hubby had the regular frozen margarita, which was frothy and well-balanced with the right touch of tequila, while I went for the top-shelf Don Patron Silver version. My drink was superb, with a touch of sweetness from the Triple Sec floating on top.

Then Ben ordered the mole enchiladas, and I decided to try the chipotle brisket tacos. The amount, richness, and moisture of the mole were a bit disappointing, but my tacos were wonderful. The chipotle had a nice kick, and the brisket was utterly tender with just a tad of essential fattiness. The accompanying boracho beans were also delicious, but vegetarians beware — the beans are heavily seasoned with smoky bacon.

Who saves room for dessert at a Mexican restaurant? Apparently we did, because we had to try Niño Envuelto, which was like a south-of-the-border Bananas Foster. We were presented with a huge banana a-la-mode, wrapped in deep-fried pastry. All that warm gooiness and the feather-light pastry were quickly devoured.

“That makes my toes happy,” I said, spooning up my dessert.

“You should write that down,” said Hubby.

I wandered around a bit, looking at the wall paintings, and I spoke with Lynn Palacios, who was sitting at the bar. Her husband Nino Palacios sings in a pleasant tenor and plays excellent Spanish guitar in the restaurant, which adds to the sense that you are having a fine-dining experience.

“Regulars from all over come here,” said Lynn. “One couple drives down all the way from Decatur.” I can believe it.

The Mission-style décor and overall presentation at Mena’s is pleasing, with gold walls and artistic touches such as fresh flowers at the bar. The wait staff wears starched white shirts and ties, and our server was attentive and friendly without being intrusive. The extremely straight-backed chairs were a tad uncomfortable, but the padded wall seats are easy enough. I noted another measurement of a proud restaurant — there is a glass window to the kitchen. They even let me wander back to the doorway and take a peek at the well-organized, clean grill where one of the chefs was sizzling-up some fajitas.

All in all, it was a great dinner, but here is the truly amazing part: We enjoyed all that for less than $50. If you weren’t already convinced that Mena’s is worth the trip north of I-635, that piece of news should definitely get your attention.

Mena’s Tex-Mex Grill is operated by owner-chef Pablo Mena, and it is located at the intersection of Marsh Lane and Trinity Mills in Carrollton. Note that it gets crowded at peak times, so get there early or late because they don’t take reservations. There’s some messy road construction just north of the intersection, but don’t let that stop you from getting your Tex-Mex fix at this great neighborhood eatery.

This article was submitted by a member of the Pegasus News community.