by Jeph Burton of North Texas Daily , Chris Speight of North Texas Daily

This local gem is just an all-around good choice for anyone. We definitely left stuffed, impressed and eager for another visit.

Metzler’s knows barbecue — there’s no mistake.

One of two locations, Metzler’s at 1115 E. University Drive sits a fair distance from UNT and less than a quarter of a mile from Texas Woman’s University.

One of the most lovable aspects of Metzler’s besides the excellent barbecue is its unpretentious, simplistic, down-home atmosphere.

On the outside, Metzler’s looks like a gas station sans pumps, but with a step inside, patrons are greeted with the South’s finest perfumes of good-old-fashioned barbecue: charred meat, original barbecue sauce, beer and the pleasant ambient sound of bubbling grease.

A look around keeps the gas-station atmosphere alive: walls lined with fridges stocked with cold beer and wine, fountain sodas and teas. But instead of aisles of candy bars and pork rinds, the shelves are loaded with wine — anything from your typical $8 grocery bottles to finer wines such as Silver Oak.

The dining area itself is a small nook at the front of the building that has only a handful of tables chained to the wall for extra security. However, the limited seating does not mean the kitchen is cold. A steady flow of take-out orders keeps the cook busy in his office.

Metzler’s has counter-style ordering. Patrons choose their meals from a large menu spanning the wall behind the counter, listing all the classics.

Our choices included a pulled-pork sandwich, chopped beef sandwich, beer-battered mushrooms and the “Appetizer of the Month” — Colby Jack and bleu cheese sticks.

The cheese sticks came to the table and were an instant favorite. Deep-fried and served with a side of ranch dressing, these heart-stoppers wowed us with their intense and amazing flavor.

The dark orange color attested to a batter that was wholly different than your average cheese stick, while the mild bleu cheese smoothed out the sharpness of the Colby Jack. The texture was perfect, too, with an outside crunch that carried the creaminess of the inside to a whole new level.

Beer-battered mushrooms are tasty indeed but were frankly no match for that sweet, sweet cheese. The crunchy texture of the beer batter hits the taste buds immediately, followed by a soft, warm mushroom.

The pulled-pork sandwich came on a lightly buttered and toasted bun. A hefty serving of meat with only a dollop of barbecue sauce, the portions were just right for bringing out the full flavor of pork (but sauce addicts can relax — there’s a full bottle of it on every table). It doesn’t come with sides automatically, but a number of sides are available for a small price.

Being in a barbecue joint like this demanded a chopped beef sandwich, always a classic.

Same style as the pulled-pork, but in beef version. Both the pork and beef sandwiches, among others, cost $3.65.

Appetizers, including chicken pepper balls (chicken and jalapenos rolled in handmade butter) and hot sausage sampler, range between $3.95 and $7.95.

Students who can’t make it home for Thanksgiving or those who don’t quite know their way around the kitchen can opt for Metzler’s to prepare their upcoming feasts.

Turkey dinners, smoked ham, glazed ham and sides are all offered for a reasonable price.

This local gem is just an all-around good choice for anyone. We definitely left stuffed, impressed and eager for another visit.

Metzler’s second location and original location is 628 Londonderry Lane in Denton.

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