Restaurant review: Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana in Fort Worth

by Josie Singleton of Eat This Fort Worth

FORT WORTH — Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana loosely translated means Lanny’s Haute (High) Mexican Kitchen. Once you experience Lanny’s food, you will understand the name better. Chef Lanny Lancarte expertly combines native Mexican ingredients with French technique and Mediterranean influences. This fusion of flavors moves Lanny’s cuisine beyond Mexican haute cuisine into just plain haute.

An heir to Tex-Mex empire, Joe T. Garcia’s, Lanny traded salsa for sous vide when he began hosting secret dinners at Joe T’s until he opened his own restaurant in July 2005. He didn’t abandon the culinary tradition he grew up with but instead moves it forward with modernity and sophistication. It’s apparent that Lanny’s prestigious Culinary Institute of America education and travels to Mexico influence his culinary innovations and discoveries.

Lanny’s is a family affair for me. My sister helped open Lanny’s and worked there for over a year, so I owe her a thanks for her many insights in putting this post together. My mother grew up in Mexico and is food-obsessed. She loves Lanny’s take on familiar and beloved Mexican ingredients and requests meals there in lieu of gifts for Mother’s Day and her birthday. We feel a connection to his roots in that my parents live in the Northside home of Lanny’s grandfather, better known as Joe T. Garcia. From a personal standpoint, I feel a lot of pride that Lanny showcases ingredients that I’ve grown up with and always considered rather humble. Special occasions for my husband and I usually merit a dinner at Lanny’s.

The vibe

Crisp white walls, clean lines, rustic wood beams, and a cool palate give this former bungalow a modern atmosphere while still remaining cozy. Spicy accents, such as the saffron orange curtains, add warmth to the fine dining atmosphere. A small grouping of recuerdos from Mexico serves as a reminder of the flavors that await us. I’m a fan of outdoor seating, and the outside dining area does not disappoint, with a wrap-around porch, succulent plants, and ceiling fans. The alfresco dining area provides a perfectly chic spot to enjoy the setting sun, a breeze, and a pre-dinner cocktail. Even the exotic and dramatic combinations of flower arrangements seem to reflect the spirit of Lanny’s cooking.

The food

Lanny produces a signature type of cuisine that is dependent on sourcing quality and unique ingredients and combining them with excellent execution. This type of cuisine does not come cheaply, nor should it. Lanny could easily open a restaurant in any major city but he chose to stay close to his roots here in Fort Worth, and for that I am thankful.

When the chance comes around to get a three-course dinner for $35 you jump on it, especially at Lanny’s. During Restaurant Week, $35 gets you a three-course dinner, when typically just an entree averages around $35. The night we went to celebrate my mom’s birthday, the dining room and patio were completely full, and Lanny himself brought out plates to many of the tables. The Restaurant Week menu provides a generous peek at Lanny’s cuisine. Restaurant week at Lanny’s is is like listening to a skipping record -- you missed a few notes but you can still enjoy the song. If you’re left wanting the full version, the Chef’s Tasting Menu is where you will find a complete experience. The Chef’s Tasting Menu is offered every night, and it really showcases Lanny’s unique culinary vision.

The Restaurant Week menu started with a choice of Seared Ahi or Saffron Sweet Corn Soup. My mom chose the Seared Ahi and my dad, sister, and I chose the comforting and delicious Saffron Sweet Corn Soup. The creamy, sweet, and rich soup came topped with duck confit. The tender duck complemented the richness of the soup and the saffron gave a hint of rust color along with a light earthy flavor.

Chorizo Wrapped Sea Scallops followed. The crispy, smoky, Spanish Chorizo did not overpower the perfectly seared, succulent scallop. Israeli Cous Cous provided a nice textural accompaniment. Vanilla oil gave a subtle aroma and an exquisite flavor dimension to the dish.

We all chose the Rack of Lamb as our next course. The thoughtfully composed dish held several components: manchengo potato puree, red pepper marmalade, and prosciutto wrapped asparagus. Upon arrival, I could see the lamb lacked some of the pinkness in the center that I prefer. Despite being a touch overdone (for my taste) the lamb still delivered a tender, rich flavor and nice caramelization. The red pepper marmalade balanced the dish with a touch of sweetness, and I scooped up every last bit. The manchego potato puree has left me in a state of longing with its airy texture and pungent, nutty flavor. The asparagus made a pretty package neatly wrapped within crispy and salty proscuitto.

Cajeta creme brulee unanimously won our vote for the fourth and final course. Cracking through the crisp, shardy shell of the creme brulee revealed a creamy custard laying on top of a luxurious pool of rich cajeta. Just as the cajeta was flowing to the top of the custard, so were my culinary memories. I immediately recalled my favorite childhood Mexican treat, Obleas, which contains cajeta in between the thinnest of wafers. Cajeta is a thick syrup made from cow or goat’s milk caramelized with sugar, and it can have an overly sweet flavor with a slight, smoky undertone. The custard of the creme brulee cut some of the sweetness of the cajeta, making for a nice finish to the meal.

I went with the suggested wine pairings and was not disappointed. I particularly enjoyed the refreshing pairing of Cava with the varied flavors of the Chorizo wrapped Scallops. Lanny is always on the forefront of bringing new wines to the Fort Worth dining scene. Over the years, Lanny has introduced me to the now trendy malbecs, tempranillos, albarinos, cavas, and riojas. The emphasis on high quality boutique vineyards is evident upon every sip.

Service

The service is efficient and attentive without being obtrusive. I always feel well taken care of when I dine here. Even on a hectic night, I felt our server, Oscar, was always on point.

Overall

Lanny did not hold back with his Restaurant Week menu. Given the constraints of Restaurant Week, Lanny did not sacrifice creativity or quality. After four years, Lanny still delivers exceptional food with no pretension. Every return visit makes it evident that he continues to explore the potential of Mexican ingredients to live up to the Alta Cocina status.

Restaurant Week may be over, but if you’re looking to stretch your dining dollar, lunch at Lanny’s provides a budget friendly option. Tapas range from $6–$9, and Entrees range from $12–$22. The lunch options still present the unique blend of cuisines that draw such a dedicated following. Once again, it’s a sneak preview of the full chef’s tasting dining experience, which I highly recommend. If you’re a food aficionado or are looking for a place to make your next special occasion all the more so, consider Lanny’s and go for the chef’s tasting. I’m already coming up with an excuse for my next occasion to indulge.