Restaurant review: Zea Woodfire Grill in Plano

by Chow Hound of McKinneyNews.net

OK. So last week several of you felt compelled to spank Chow Hound a little bit.

Well, Chow Hound, an admitted (and certainly not recovering) masochist, wishes to thank the several opinionated – and courageous -- readers for their vehement and lusty protestations – so much so, in fact, that the pain-lovin’ pooch is seriously considering panning every restaurant in hopes of a more regular (sustained) dose of hurt-so-good ad hominem acrimony from the peanut gallery. But that wouldn’t be quite right, now would it?

Oh well, can’t blame a dog for dreaming…

This week Chow Hound gassed up the Caddie and took a little drive to Plano’s Shops at Granite Park. And yes, truth be told, The Dog, jonesing for another whipping, was hoping he might find another Elke’s-style conundrum, i.e., a joint that everybody apparently loves that, at least in The Dog’s astute eyes and discriminating taste, ain’t all that great.

Instead, what Chow Hound found brought tears to his little eyes: Zea Woodfire Grill, a relatively new joint (just over three years old) sitting on the southeast corner of the Dallas North Tollway and State Highway 121.

Taking yet another cue from D Magazine, CH sped over to Zea Woodfire Grill praying, quite frankly, for some sort of miraculous catastrophe. After all, D thought the joint stupendous, offering CH the potential opportunity to rain on somebody’s precious little food parade should things not, uh, go as they should.

But alas, ladies and gentlemen, there would be no rain and consequently, no parade.

Chow Hound breached the doors of Zea during the mid-afternoon, finding the joint devoid of a single patron. Immediately, CH’s nostrils flared as smoke bathed his olfactory nerve. “Yep, that’s the wood fire grill in the back,” the hostess said with a jovial laugh. For a moment, Chow Hound was a tad discombobulated as The Dog’s brain attempted to synchronize Zea’s modern, tres chic aesthetic – leather couches in the bar and abstract art on the walls – with the sort of smoky haze one might find in a rustic barbeque joint. Happily, after five minutes or so, CH’s brain moved on.

The peppy and quite friendly waitress made contact with Chow Hound and after a few minutes of discussion, The Dog decided to try three different dishes: one bacon and cheddar burger (a/k/a, Zea burger: $9.50); one pepper jelly chicken salad ($9.75); and one hickory trout Lafitte (a recommendation by the waitress at $17.95).

Folks, the food was stunning.

Granted, it’s hard to muck up a burger that’s carrying two nicely prepared (well-done) slabs of bacon, but beyond the half-pound beast that was supplemented by perfectly prepared fries (tender on the inside with a delicate exterior crunch), the Lafitte trout, was perhaps one of the best fish dishes The Dog has had in an exceptionally long time – yes, it was even better than Long John Silver’s Double Jr. Fish Sandwich.

The mildly flavored trout was presented with several fat fried shrimp, both of which were bathed in a deliciously cheesy/creamy (with only a hint of spiciness) Cajun cream sauce. Stunning.

As with the burger, one might be tempted to dismiss a salad selection as not worthy of review. But those of us in the biz understand that salads are not absentmindedly prepared and presented creatures. Indeed, the bounty of ingredients, or supporting agents, e.g., the tomatoes, onions, nuts, etc., must be exceedingly fresh and vibrant in taste if a joint wants to do salads well. Zea obviously got the memo. The pepper jelly chicken was fabulous, its chicken bursting with smoky flavor, its almonds crispy (yes, crispy!), its spinach delectably fresh. Those with baby tongues, however, might do well to watch their step with this salad. Beware; its peanut/ginger/soy dressing packs a certain spicy wallop.

Of course, Chow Hound felt compelled to sample something from the dessert menu. After conferring with the waitress, CH took her advice and selected a slab of sweet potato bread pudding ($5).

Ladies and gentlemen, if there is a God, that God, when not busy saving notorious sinners like Chow Hound, is obviously moonlighting in Zea’s kitchen whipping up batches of easily the best bread pudding Chow Hound has ever placed into his oral cavity. It’s hard to describe good bread pudding without sounding cliché. Yes, suffice it to say that everything was in place – the warm praline caramel sauce and the wiggly, egg-infused and exceedingly moist underbelly.

Wait a minute. It just occurred to Chow Hound that this glowingly positive review might not be a bust after all. What if – now just go with CH for a moment – what if at least one Homo sapien in DFW happens to despise Zea? What if that Homo sapien reads this review? Hmm. The possibilities are endless. CH is waiting with bated breath.

For those who enjoy doing themselves an occasional favor, you might hop in the car and make your way over to Zea. Or not. As usual, the choice is up to you. Unless, of course, you have succumbed to Chow Hound’s impressive powers of persuasion. If that’s the case, you’re done.