Barbecue report: Up N Smoke BBQ in Keller

by Staff of Full Custom Gospel BBQ

KELLER — Up N Smoke BBQ is showing its age. Not because it's run down, but because the edge of the six lane Highway 377 is just a few feet from the edge of the building. When this place was built in the thirties, the road was nothing more than two lanes. Phil Dansby bought the building and opened this joint in 1997. He's been smoking meat over mesquite wood ever since.

On this visit, I settled in to watch some football on the flat screens scattered about the dining room while I sipped an ice cold beer from a frozen schooner. It was hard to decide between the many draught options, but the Spaten Optimator proved a good choice.

The menu is extensive but I was focused on the smoked items. Outside of the usual brisket and ribs, they also offer smoked corn on the cob and a smoked sweet potato. My order was set.

As the food arrived, I could already catch the smokey aroma. Lightly glazed ribs were piled high atop beautiful thick slices of brisket. Each slice had a thick smoke ring beneath a black crust. The slices were slightly dry, but they were tender with incredible flavor. The ribs had a rub heavy with black pepper and a sweet glaze. The moist meat had a hint of smokiness and pulled easily from the bone. They had a good flavor but could have been fresher.

The smoked corn was some of the best corn I've eaten, even though it's out of season. The sweet potato took on very little smoke flavor and was underdone.

Just when I thought I was done, the amiable server, Paula, suggested that I try the stuffed jalapenos, and I'm glad she did. These hollowed out jalapenos are stuffed with chopped brisket and cheese, then wrapped in bacon and smoked. Each bite was a fiery piece of heaven. They alone are worth returning for.

Rating ***