Restaurant review: J&J’s Pizza in Denton

by Jeph Burton of North Texas Daily , Chris Speight of North Texas Daily

J&J’s Pizza on the Square combines a nonchalant college atmosphere with phenomenal pizza.

Adding to the history, the building was constructed in 1889.

We arrived at 9:25 p.m. and immediately started to soak in the atmosphere, a quaint slice of eclectic Americana.

Visual treats cover every brick wall in the place. Shiner Bock mirrors, a stop sign, various paintings, several Virgin Marys, a myriad of both black-and-white, dark room-processed photographs and color photographs.

An old stone wall in the restaurant runs the length of the left side.

Next to an old-school jukebox, paneled ceilings, and an antique wooden bar, a bowling Richard Nixon presides. You’ll have the sensation you just went back to the mid-1950s.

At 9:30 p.m., we placed our order -- a supreme pizza, no holds barred. To quench the thirst, a chilly bottle of Lone Star for Chris, while Jeph went for the soda fountain.

Real magic happens below, when J&J’s books local and outside bands to perform downstairs in the kind of environment where Denton’s music scene shines – a barely lit, old dive setting with a pool table, dusty old couch, and bar.

J&J’s is famous in Denton for its pizza, but beyond that the menu features cheese bread, lasagna, calzones, and other Italian-styled foods.

Beer on draft and by the bottle varies in price between $1 and $4.25. For beer lovers, the place has a decent selection, including Schiltz, Amstel, Shiner, Guiness, Red Stripe, Peroni, and Newcastle, just to name a few.

On certain nights, J&J’s will provide free bottle service if you bring your own bottle of wine. The staff will point you in the direction of the closest wine shop, Wine Squared.

The pizza took about 10 minutes to prepare, and when it did, it was bubbling hot and looking exceptionally delicious. Toppings weren’t just baked into the cheese; they were massed so densely that it made more sense to eat each slice like a folded sandwich.

The dough itself was packed with flavor – an interesting thing to note because for us, the flavor of dough doesn’t frequently stand out. (It must be the water, right?)

As it’s situated around the square Denton, it shouldn’t have been a surprise to us when, 10 minutes before close, a group of about 12 people walked into the restaurant and began placing orders. But what was most surprising about the whole thing was that the servers continued serving until exactly 10 p.m.

J&J’s is open until midnight Monday through Saturday if there is a show; otherwise, it closes at 10 p.m.

We left 15 minutes past close (there were no gigs playing, either). They never kicked us out or even made an effort to rush us, which is the mark of really incredible customer service.

When we asked the owner the staff’s feelings about staying late, he said they’d stay until everyone was happy, which is comforting.

While it's a great value with a group of friends, if you’re buying by the slice it will run you about $5 -- which is a bit on the high end, although you do get two slices. To get the best value, three or four friends might be able to knock out a large for a fairly decent price.

Our large supreme cost $17.99. You are definitely paying for quality at this place.

J&J’s offers dine-in or take-out, and free delivery with a purchase of at least $10.

RATINGS

Cleanliness – 4/5

Service – 5/5

Affordability – 4/5

Atmosphere – 5/5

Food Quality – 5/5