Thursday, April 29, 2010
D Magazine supper club investigates seafood at Sevy’s Grill in Dallas
Something fishy went on Wednesday night.
The six-course dinner drew a capacity crowd, prompting management to close the restaurant down for the night to regular customers.
Representatives from Boston-based Connolly Seafood were on hand to answer questions and talk about fish. D Magazine Food/Travel Editor Nancy Nichols recalled the year-old blog post about salmon that spurred her to begin her exploration of seafood supply in Dallas, as well as the growth of the supper club event. This rendition drew a wide swath of attendees that went beyond the typical foodie to business and society types.
For seafood fans, the meal was a treat. Not only did they get multiple courses with different kinds of fish, they got to compare similar-but-not-equal items on the same plate. Chef Jim Severson expressed his mock dismay at the fact that he wasn't able to cover the fish portions with some kind of sauce because he didn't want to overwhelm the tasting experience, but made sure that sauces were available on the side.
After the starter crostini topped with Jonah crab, diners got to do what Nichols had done at Chamberlain's Market Grill: compare a U-10 scallop with a more expensive Diver scallop. The scallops came with corn relish and a triangle of crispy polenta. Side by side, the Diver scallop looked generally smaller and more compressed.
The next course pitted Atlantic cod against Pacific halibut. This seemed to be one of the easiest judgments to be made, as the cod broke apart in large flakes while the halibut was more compact. It was a nice dish in terms of presentation, with roasted potato wedges, roasted artichoke halves, and haricot verts.
The salmon course fooled quite a few diners, as the farm-raised salmon was higher and sported a good crust, while the wild seemed small and less splashy. It came with creamy orzo that contained wonderful fresh peas and bacon bits.
The fifth course was a surf and turf with a large half lobster tail and a slice of medium rare tenderloin, paired with an incredible cabernet sauvignon from Robert Craig Vineyards. Dessert was a well made creme brulee with a hint of tangerine, mmmm.
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