Barbecue report: Hardeman’s BBQ in Dallas

Smoky brisket and moist ribs.

Hardeman's

In my search around the city looking for BBQ in every nook and cranny of Dallas, I've come upon many a location that was once a Hardeman's, and a few shuttered locations with faded Hardeman's signs. I was of the thought they were all gone until I stumbled upon a short review of a Hardeman's BBQ on Westmoreland by The Hungry Texan from back in August. I added it to the list and headed there on a recent weekend to find it open and smelling of good hickory smoke. The owners are part of the Hardeman family, and said a new location just opened within the last month in Cedar Hill. Based on this trip, I'll be headed there soon.

A sweetened smashed potato salad sat alongside smoky pinto beans. Brisket had good smokiness, but the meat was a bit dry and tough. The sauce helped it quite a bit, but this beef needed more smoker time. Ribs were still plenty moist. The tender meat pulled easily from the bone, and the fat within was nicely rendered. When the meat is presauced, it normally takes away considerably from the flavor of the meat, but it only complimented the ribs whose smokiness was bold enough to cut through the slightly sweet sauce. A tangy banana pudding finished things off. I think they may have included either whipped cream cheese or possibly creme fraiche, but the result was unexpected and addictive. I'm glad I found the place.

Rating ***