Restaurant review: The Meddlesome Moth in Dallas

by Jim White of Savor Wine and Food

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Jim White likes the Moth's take on the traditional Cobb Salad.

Photo by Jim White

Stained glass windows and dining room at The Meddlesome Moth

I’ve been enjoying Shannon Wynne’s new restaurant The Meddlesome Moth a lot lately. I have had two lunch meetings in the new Design District digs, and plan to have dinner there ASAP. I need to do that -- and so do you if you haven’t been -– because all of the ingredients are there for this to be a very successful restaurant.

It is, like Shannon’s other restaurants, a great place to hang. The location is fabulous: right on the corner of Hi Line and Oak Lawn at the entrance to the ever more appealing Dallas Design District. They have hired a great young chef: Chad Kelley (formerly Exec Chef at Oceanaire Seafood Room). The decor is so much fun. Hip, upscale, and relaxed all at once. You remember "The Supreme Court of Rock ‘n Roll?" (AKA The Dallas Hard Rock Cafe). Shannon secured the very cool stained glass windows that graced the main room in the defunct (destroyed actually) old restaurant and now “The King” (Elvis), “The Killer” (Jerry Lee Lewis), and “The Prime Minister of Rock ‘n Roll” (Chuck Berry) greet you in the dining room of The Moth.

Photo by Jim White

Chef Chad Kelley from The Meddlesome Moth in Dallas

I only had my iPhone with me so the photo here doesn’t do justice to the intricate detail of these objets d’arts. Following in the Flying Saucer tradition, The Moth is a beer lover’s paradise. They don’t have quite as many beers on tap, but it’s more than sufficient. And Shannon’s partner Keith Schlabs continues his outstanding work here as "Beer Guru." The vibe at lunch is high energy. Lots of LOL (Lower Oak Lawn) types and business people on hand for the simple but satisfying fare. I love their tip of the hat (or helmet in this case) to the revered old P.C. Cobb Stadium, which once stood where the InfoMart is, just a DVD toss across Stemmons.

The Moth’s take on the traditional Cobb Salad (PC) includes prosciutto, roast chicken, crumbled blue cheese, egg, tomato, and avocado. Very tasty. We’ve also heard raves on the Poached Tuna on Avocado from our lunch partner today. Sandwiches include a delightful Open Face Pulled Chicken (more of a salad really) with addictive agave nectar, radish, cornichons, and deviled egg. The Burgundy Pasture Burger with 1000 island, heirloom tomatoes, and horseradish pickles is made from grass-fed beef. Steak Frittes and Quarter Fried Chicken are popular main course items.

Like I said, we’ll have to get back in at night for a more extensive menu sampling. As to the significance of the name? Shannon swears there isn’t any. In fact, he makes the point on their website, "I have no idea why I am calling it The Moth. I like it. I like the way it sounds. That is as deep as I am. There is no visual or spiritual element or significance." So be it. The Moth it is. It’s a great addition to the scene.

Pegasus News Content partner - Savor Wine and Food