Barbecue report: Smokehouse Cafe in Fort Worth

by Staff of Full Custom Gospel BBQ

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Best thing is the catfish.

3-meat plate at Smokehouse Cafe

FORT WORTH — Smokehouse Cafe has got to be the only time I've been able to order catfish on a three meat plate. Although it wasn't listed as an option for the BBQ plates, I'd heard that the catfish might be the best item here, and the owner was accommodating. With so many items on the menu and their sign, the place seems to have an identity crisis. Maybe they just figured they needed to diversify after their time in Springtown when they were known as Hilltop BBQ.

After the move, little has changed about the BBQ. The slices of brisket are still thick and chewy with a jerky like seasoning that might just have five spice powder in it. Ribs were very large and equally underdone. The meat needed quite a tug, and then still didn't release from the bone entirely. As overheard, the catfish was the best item. Flaky fish beneath an ultra crispy cornmeal coating was delicious and homey, even dipped in BBQ sauce.

Rating **

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