Goghee To Go officially serves Korean BBQ tacos in Dallas

We visit them on their first day open, next door to the original Sonny Bryan's.

Airon Peralta

DALLAS — Goghee To Go, one of the first places in Dallas to serve the Korean barbecue-style tacos that have been the rage in Los Angeles and now New York, opened for business at 10:30 a.m. on Monday with a line of customers and a somewhat sticky situation in the parking lot.

Taking over the little kiosk of a building previously occupied by Burguesa Burger, Goghee To Go comes from Korean-American husband-and-wife Terry and Janice Song, who previously owned Yummy Donuts in University Park.

By 12 noon, there were already customers waiting to place their order at the tiny window, and all of the parking lot's half-dozen spaces were taken. The building has a drive-through window, and to-go orders will represent a significant percentage of business. But with tacos being an eat-it-on-the-spot thing for a lot of people, it seems like the space might face some logistical challenges.

There are four meat-type options: beef, chicken, pork, and mushroom. All had a spicy, sweet-and-hot personality; the beef was garlicky, while the pork and chicken had more of a red-chile flavor. Nearly everyone was getting tacos, but you can also get your meat-item in a burrito, burrito bowl, quesadilla, torta, or in nachos.

Goghee's other point of distinction is the fact that, in addition to chopped lettuce, you can add a side of the Korean pickled-cabbage side dish they call gimchee (but which you more often see spelled as kim chee).

The meats were fine -- a combination of chopped bits with the occasional meat Chunk and a smidge of chewy fat. The mushroom was sliced portabella, and ultra-juicy; in the drive home, the soy jus drained from the mushroom into the corn tortilla. Mushroom is a porous thing, so that taco variety might benefit from eating soon after ordering.

For those who want to eat on the premises, there are a few picnic tables. Luckily for Burguesa, it never suffered the problem of having too many customers, so logistics weren't an issue. But with Korean barbecue tacos being new-ish to Dallas and tacos currently being our Favorite Thing, it seems like Goghee could face a snarl. The drive-through lane takes up most of the space on the lot, so drivers can't cross from one end of the site to the other.

The reality is that the space is too small to accommodate everything. But on the upside: It's bigger than a truck. It's definitely better than a truck.