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Thursday, June 30, 2011
Restaurant review: In-N-Out Burger in Dallas
Arugula lover forced to consume fast-food burger.
DALLAS — Ordinarily, it wouldn't be fair to evaluate the food at a restaurant on the weekend it opens. At least, not at the kind of place I like to visit. You know the kind of place: arugula on the menu, maybe some goat cheese. Usually you give those kinds of places a coupla weeks to hit their stride.
But the assignment at hand was In-N-Out Burger, a fast-food place -- less a restaurant than a well-oiled machine that spits out a burger every 30 seconds. A place where things are ready-to-roll on Day One. With a branch now open in Dallas, we hit it on its first Saturday night.
The preamble
At 8 p.m., about 50 cars waited in line. An employee said it would take 45 minutes to get through (she also said they expected that the lines would die down after the first weekend). The stench of gasoline from idling cars was a bit sickening. Planning to sit down and eat, we headed for the parking lot in back of the restaurant. Another line of cars. Bypassing that, we drove around the block and found some empty spots in an alley, then hoofed it, passing by Chick Fil-A, IHOP, and Taco Bueno, next-door to In-N-Out, which was deader than a morgue.
Inside
Inside, the restaurant felt chaotic. There were three cashiers, with two dozen people waiting in line to order. Another dozen stood in a semi-circle, staring at the three employees who were handing out complete orders. The dining room was full. Would there be an open table by the time we got our food?
Ordering
We ordered a single burger Animal style, an order of fries, and a vanilla shake. Hoping to test In-N-Out's notorious responsiveness, I asked for my shake to have no lid and no straw, which they carefully typed into the register. We placed our order at 8:12 p.m.
Line at Saturday 8:30 p.m.
Fulfillment
While My Dining Companion Marc loitered at the registers, I moved to the dining room to keep an eye out for a table. Within five minutes, two stools at a counter opened up and no one fought with me to claim them, causing me to speculate re: the likelihood that this whole operation was logistically slotted so that by the time one person finishes eating, the next diner's order emerges.
We got our order at 8:27, in 15 minutes. The burger came in a little paper bag that kept it looking neat and perky. Each individual component was in good shape, with a visible green curl of iceberg lettuce, tomato slice, dark burger edge, and toasted rim of the bun.
A word about the bun
Most fast-food burgers come on buns that have been squooshed. This is a big point of differentiation for In-N-Out, and it receives lots of attention. In-N-Out makes has its own buns made, the body stay fluffy, the edges are toasted, on and on. Everyone's right about this, In-N-Out's are better than most fast-food burger buns. But hello: It's a freaking fast-food bun. All you would have to do to make an In-N-Out bun look and taste almost exactly like everyone else's is to flatten it with your hand. How can anyone get all proud about an airy, flimsy white-flour pouf?
In-N-Out burger
The toppings
The best part of the burger, the toppings included a substantial slab of iceberg lettuce and a slice of tomato about 5/8-inch thick. People like the tomato at In-N-Out because it makes them feel like they're healthy, eating all those "vegetables." It's a sham. Iceberg lettuce, while wonderfully hydrating, has little nutritional value, and if you like tomatoes so much, why are you settling for a single slice when you could eat a bowl of lovely tomato wedges, perhaps sprinkled with a little sea salt?
If you're a cool hipster who's privy to the world of secret menus and such, then you already know you must order your In-N-Out burger "Animal style," with drizzled mustard, sliced pickles, Thousand-Island-style spread, and grilled onions. It was good. It had, how do you say, gestalt. Truthfully, I didn't get much mustard-grilling flavor, and the spread was subtle; but the pickles had vinegary tang and crunch, and the grilled onions were great. They were diced small, giving it a softened caramelized thing that mellowed the flavor and texture; it was more like onion jam. Melted American cheese was like the drummer in the rock band: It held it all together.
The burger
It was a thin patty with a browned edge and no tangible bits of gristle. Ta-da. But since the flavor came primarily from the toppings, the meat seemed pointless. There was maybe a hint of "grilled," but next time, I might just get my burger without the burger.
The fries
You hear a fair amount of grousing about In-N-Out's fries, apparently because they're not sufficiently crispy? "You have to get them double-fried," people say. I thought the fries were very good. I don't mind a little softening in the middle, and I appreciated how much they tasted like actual potatoes. They weren't greasy at all. High marks for the fries.
The shake
First, it came with no lid and no straw. High five In-N-Out, for your ability to respond to requests. Usually, if you ask a fast-food worker for No Lid (and I do), you have to remind them the entire time they're making your shake, "Now don't forget, I don't need a lid." And then when they finish mixing your shake and automatically reach for the lid, you have to repeat it again, "OH! I don't need a lid, remember?" Fast-food employees love people like me.
Cup-wise, love-love-love that In-N-Out uses waxed cups, not styrofoam or plastic. (Boo to Whataburger.) We got vanilla so that we could more carefully focus on the texture. The flavor was mild, but appealing. They say they make them from real ice cream, and the consistency was reminiscent of Jack In The Box, and definitely better than McD's-Whata-etc. potato-starch-enhanced shakes. The center of the shake stayed firm and cold but some of it melted and pooled into a liquid around the circumference of the cup. When your shake melts, it's the real deal.
The crowd
To our right sat three jaded gals who were either lookalike friends or sisters; they all had serious applique action on their extra-long fingernails and they weren't all that impressed. One of them didn't like the way her burger was done and asked for it to be re-cooked. "Five Guys is better than this," she snipped. I liked the family who clearly came in from waaay out of town. They looked pure country. The daughter had spiky hair that maybe wasn't actually meant to be spiky, her mom was a very large lady, her brother wore a non-ironic trucker cap, and her overalls-clad dad had only a couple of front teeth.
In summary
Keeping in mind that this is a fast-food place, it easily beats its peers, even without the arugula. As my Dining Companion said, it's the best $2 burger he's had.
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manny, anonymous:
a few of the things i like there is how clean it is, as well as how nice the staff is....i've visited locations in CA, NV, AZ, UT, and now TX and it seems as though the people there enjoy their jobs unlike a lot of other fast food burger joints.
i did have a chance to speak with one of the gals holding the door last week. very nice. she said that she was from one of the AZ locations...they flew a bunch of them in and got them apartments for a period of time to help with the new locations until the TX staff was up to speed. interesting to me as that goes to show how much time, effort, and cash In-N-Out puts towards it's employees and business.
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manny, anonymous:
oh and of course... i love their burgers!
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Cole, anonymous:
This is the biggest joke around only a fool would stand in line for a sloppy hamburger ....they best not wait for me to get there, I dont eat hamburgers of any kind never liked them ,realy bad for your health
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assortedpast, anonymous:
I went there last Monday and was totally unimpressed with the food. It was fresh and wholesome, but rather standard fare. I like the fries better at Burger House, Smashburger or Five Guys. As far as the burgers are concerned, I think Fuddrucker's, Smashburger and Denny's all do it better. Frankly, I don't see what the bid deal is.
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runDMC, anonymous:
Gee, Cole, thanks for the insight. I was kinda on the fence about this burger deal but you made me see the light. Let me suggest that since burger joints are reviewed very regularly here at Pegasus, would you mind if they just copied and pasted your comment to every burger review. It would add a certain flair and depth that honestly, is just not always there with in Pegasus reviews. Thanks in advance.
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Cole, anonymous:
help your self
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dfdf, anonymous:
AN't got sh*t on wataburger
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lisaltx, anonymous:
assortedpast -- pretty much what my husband and I thought. Okay but not substantially better than any other fast food burger. I won't go out of my way to get there but if one was handy and I was in the market for a fast food burger I might go. If I wanted a real burger it would be Fuddruckers, etc.
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Teresa Gubbins, staff:
Cole and runDMC, you two are cracking me up
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Cole, anonymous:
Just telling it like it is .........LOL
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Jason Rice, verified:
TGubb - what a charming review, Arugula Lover or not.
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Cole, anonymous:
If you like burgers I can get some road kill and slap it between some buns and fix you a good one ............
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Jason Rice, verified:
Thanks, but I prefer my roadkill handled expertly by minimum wage high school students.
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Teresa Gubbins, staff:
spoken like a true gourmand
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dwstxs1969, anonymous:
I wonder how much innenout pays for these reviews?
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not9531, anonymous:
In-N-Out is pretty good... glad they are in Dallas.
For those in the Plano Area, check out Burger Break on Alma and Spring Creek - real juicy 1/2 burgers start at $5. Down the street is a five-guys, which I will admit - best FRIES ever, but the burger is ho-hum... nothing special.
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not9531, anonymous:
In-N-Out is pretty good... glad they are in Dallas.
For those in the Plano Area, check out Burger Break on Alma and Spring Creek - real juicy 1/2 burgers start at $5. Down the street is a five-guys, which I will admit - best FRIES ever, but the burger is ho-hum... nothing special.
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Teresa Gubbins, staff:
dwstxs1969, we haven't received any payments from In-N-Out. people seem to like to read about In-N-Out and we like to have people visit our site, so that's why we post stories about In-N-Out.
you might enjoy reading some of the many stories about unknown restaurants we've posted, which you can find if you check our Dining tab:
http://www.pegasusnews.com/news/in/li...
i've also written about other fast-food items including the pineapple shake at Whataburger,
http://www.pegasusnews.com/news/2011/...
and the frozen lemonade at McDonald's
http://www.pegasusnews.com/news/2011/...
i HAVE heard rumors that In-N-Out hires employees to wait in line at their grand openings and make it look more exciting. but they don't pay for reviews.
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docharleyday, anonymous:
It's a phenomenal place to eat with great service and delicious burgers and delectible fries and over-the-top shakes. It's really too bad I've never eaten there.
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magic_tongue_tx, anonymous:
While the ingredients are good and the price is competitive, there's not much to the burger....where's the beef???? Quantity is way too small for any length of wait. Don't see what all the hoopla is about IN and OUT....They are definitely not Kincaid's or Burger House.....Maybe California is the place they ought to be......we like things here "Texas Style and Size"!!!!
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Jason Rice, verified:
people seem to like to
readbicker about In-N-Outthere - fixed it for ya.
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txfluvg1eats, anonymous:
I've eaten at In n Out in Las Vegas and L.A. and find them passable, but not great. Kinciad's in the Fort Worth area makes one of the best burgers around. Just eat at the one in Dallas (In n Out) and they are still below Whataburger's and Kincaid's. However, their fries do taste like potatoes, but I'd like a crisp outside.
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christinenavratil, anonymous:
To taste the burger you must get it plain. No veggies. I get mine with mustard only. But you could do ketchup, special sauce only etc. I don't like anything on my burger for the exact reason that it takes away from the flavor. Next time get a double double with only your favorite (or no sauce) and I guarantee you will taste the meat in all its wonderfulness!
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ccamp_fx, anonymous:
45 minute wait? Not very in and out, huh? I've eaten at a number of locations in CA and every one of them is the same, long lines and crowded. It's obvious they generate a lot of foot traffic. Why don't they just open locations like Fuddrucker's, that have decent parking, decent number of tables, etc. instead of fast-food sized locations forcing customers into an uncomfortable dining experience? If I see lines, I drive right past. Too many other options to choose from. Yes, tasty burgers and fries, but when I want to eat, I want to eat!
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OEsophagus, anonymous:
tomato slices are actually 7/16-inch thick.
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wadenliz, anonymous:
Another bitter article from Teresa Gubbins. In-N Out fans love the place. The rest of you can eat at Whataburger.
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wkout, anonymous:
Change every now and then is fun, but the taste of the buns at Whataburger are far superior to any other fast food burger, IN and OUT included. If you are a real Texan, then you know Whataburger's are the best. If you are not a real Texan, then your story speaks for itself. Either you are a transplant or you need to get out of the city sometime. Yes, I enjoy going to IN and OUT. But the best of all is Whataburger for meat and bun flavor as well as fresh vegetables. Whataburger does not need an animal to make their burgers the best.
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ab8648, anonymous:
"Whataburger does not need an animal to make their burgers the best. "
Well, besides a cow, of course. :)
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James Scott, verified:
how is this bitter, wadenliz? Did you even read the article? Jeez.
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tadmurley, anonymous:
The only reason this is an issue is because it's different and familiar to those from the west coast. We'd see the same crap if it were White Castle and midwesterners were in those lines. As for Kincaids, they make a pretty good burger but you better check your credit balance before going there because it's really pricy for a dang burger. If you want to avoid the lines and all the grief why not go to your butcher, have them gring you a good blend of beef, and make them at home yourself. Let the meat stand at room temp, apply seasalt and pepper, and then into a hot skillet for 4 minutes per side then let rest 5 minutes before making your burger. You'll never eat a restaurant burger again!!!!
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jennigrrl22, anonymous:
Griff's, FTW!!! Whataburger is OK. BK will do in a pinch. I won't set foot in a Wendy's, and McDonald's does not serve hamburgers, IM(not so)HO.
When I decide to have a hamburger I am not shooting for health food... I want a burger that comes with an appointment for an angiogram. That's the kind of fare that Griff's gives you.
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TLS, anonymous:
TG: Your review is hilarious. Gestalt and all.
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ebeth76205, anonymous:
Way over-hyped! Barely average. If you want a good burger I've got a list I would hit before In/Out: the very best is Denton Co. Independent Hamburger, then Love Shack, Pappas Burgers, 5 Guys, Smashburger. And those In/Out fries are totally tasteless & limp!
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not9531, anonymous:
5 Guys burgers taste about the same as IN-N-OUT. small patties. I'll never waste my money on buying a burger from them. The place is a mad-house nothing more.
"over-the-top shakes." It comes out of a machine like most other fast-food places. If you want a REAL shake or malt in the OK/TX area, go to Braums. About $2.50 gets you a 16oz shake of any ice-cream flavor they have.
Other places for better burgers (than avg fast food as well as 5guys/ In-N-Out) Fudruckers, which are all over the place. And again, if you live near Plano in which there is an IN-N-OUT about 10minutes away, check out Burger Break - its hard to eat the whole thing, its so huge... but taste so good. Fresh meat daily, expect to wait about 10~15min for your order as they are COOKED by order. They also serve beer there. You get a lot of fries with your order (not as good as 5 Guys).
I'll still go to IN-N-OUT from time to time, they aren't far away and for something different.
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texasguy4, anonymous:
4 words....Hole In The Wall
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cowboydon, anonymous:
Honestly folks, except for that veggitarin dude, if you want a great burger go to Kellers or Jakes. End of story.
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venuslite007, anonymous:
why is it when a new food joint comes to DALLAS it only comes north? are the consumers suppose to run North just to see what all the hoopla is about. when SW Dallas get a new business...o When???... what's the deal on that???? another burger joint, yea!!!!
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one_whiteboy, anonymous:
IN N OUT?? For years Dallasites have boasted the best of the best --Wingfields !! Yay!! BEST BURGER IS ALWAYS IN NOTH DALLAS? YUPPIES!
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jamesamoyers, anonymous:
I was introduced to In-N-Out Burger during Labor Day Weekend '02 at Fisherman's Wharf in SF. A great burger basket!
I resolved that occasion nearly a decade ago whether I would live long enough for our Rangers achieve an appearance the World Series or In-N-Out come to Texas. I was born in Knoxville, Tennessee, during the same year that In-N-Out was created in Baldwin Park, California.
Upon this senior citizen, an impossible dream has become true for both our Rangers and In-N-Out Burger.
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androidhunterb26354, anonymous:
It would appear to me that this is nothing more than a pre-planned attempt to express dislike of a burger that was already prejudged as being "bad" or "overrated". In 'N' Out serves the best fastfood hamburger, period. Deal with it.
To say What-a-Burger is best is nothing more than a futile attempt to say "Don't mess with Texas" simply because What-a-Burger is a "Texas thing" and In 'N' Out is a "California thing", so by default, What-a-Burger is better. Pathetic.
Five Guys Burgers? What an appropriate name. Because the Burgers starts at over $5.00. Just like all these other "sit-down" restaurants heralded as being better than In 'N' Out. Well, that's a no-brainer; They're not fastfood burgers and therefor your argument is invald.
So, In 'N' Out is the best fastfood burger. All the food is fresh. Nothing is frozen. Deal with it.
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tforeman45, anonymous:
to be honest none of these burger places can touch burger street
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Jason Rice, verified:
Man, every time TGubb writes anything short of full-orchestra Hosanna in praise of the damned place, you guys come out of the woodworks screamin'.
Frankly, I think Peg should do a weekly feature on the place just build traffic on the site. This week, the burger. Next week the stupid trees. Week after, how the parking lot paint lines are holding up. Then interviews with people that are just finishing up their Mercenary training stints and where they are going home to.
Heck, In-N-Out it's more than an industry, it's a friggin religion! (but then, nearly everything in California is a bloody religion.)
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snewks02, anonymous:
Ate at one in California. Hated it! Couldn't see what all the fuss was about. The fries were gross. I will stay with my Whataburger!!
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kasey, anonymous:
Cole said: "This is the biggest joke around only a fool would stand in line for a sloppy hamburger ....they best not wait for me to get there, I dont eat hamburgers of any kind never liked them ,realy bad for your health"
Cole, if you don't eat burgers, then why the hell did you even bother to comment on this article. Most likely you didn't even read it, so your opinion does't matter at all. Go crawl back under your cabbage.
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kasey, anonymous:
I don't get people comparing it to Fuddruckers. Burger at In-N-Out, $2.50. Fuddruckers, $10 and up. They aren't the same kind of burger. Compare it to Whataburger, and it's way better for a bit less. Whataburger = most overrated burger in Texas. Their breakfast burritos are good, though.
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djnjmex, anonymous:
For everyone on here complaining so much about In N Out ... There are MILLIONS of people (including me) who Love the place.... Funny thing is ...THEY DONT NEED YOU TO BUY ANYTHING FROM THEM....... Go on with you bashing of them and they will continue making MILLIONS without you.... nuff said.......
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twinwillow, anonymous:
Whataburger is a joke compared to INO. And if all of you INO haters would stay away, then maybe I wouldn't have to wait so long to get mine.
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robbcomer, anonymous:
The best beurger and fries I've ever had!
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jbstyles, anonymous:
If you want a huge delicious burger that is inexpensive, go to "burger island"......nuff said.
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elgragonyo, anonymous:
How did In-N-Out Burger get its name?
Coz it's in and out of your system as fast as you can say diarrhea!
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not9531, anonymous:
(TEXAS DUDE) @kasey : $10 for a Fuddrukers? You invalidate your argument with made up facts. Fuddruckers charges $5.55 for a 1/3lb cheese burger. $6 for 1/2 pound. BurgerBreak only makes 1/2lb burgers.
And yes, I'll compare them (including 5guys) to In-n-Out because at these places, you're going to be waiting about 5~10 minutes to get your food, doesn't matter if its drive-in, to-go or sit-down. And all the above offer the same. They are NOT sit-down restaurants in which you are seated and have to order your burger from a waiter/waitress.
Now, when it comes to McDonalds, BurgerKing, Wendys - you may get your burger in 30~90seconds... as your food was cooked before you walked in.
Braums drops their frozen meat when you order.
When you compare IN-N-Out prices (which are fair), their cheese burger (1/4 lb) is $3.00. McDonalds Big-mac is about $3 which is almost 1/4lb, their Angus is 1/3lb is about $5.
Braums sell a meal for $5.50 that is 1/3lb cheese, with fries and a REAL shake or malt.
Sometimes, FAST FOOD pricing is about the same as a good meal at sit-down or better burger joint. Sometimes, I need something quick on the way to work... the $1 small crap sandwhich will do... but if I'm going to spend $5+ on a meal, might as well get it elsewhere than McD, Wendys, BurgerKing and even IN-n-Out. Paying $1 more for 1/2 lb of fresh cooked meat is worth it.
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mom2nickNmeg, anonymous:
I'm with the one who said Hole in the Wall. Best. burger. ever.
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salakfarm, anonymous:
I've won three Best Walter trophies at LebowskiFests in LA [2] and NYC [1]. As Donny said, "Those are good burgers, Walter." I replied, of course, "Shut the f* up, Donny!"
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DallasDude, anonymous:
Always thought they were over-rated when I lived for years in LA. Tried it maybe 3-4x and was OK, but nothing special. If ya gotta have a burger, there are far better options here in town. Frankly, I find most fast food to be overpriced and not so fast!
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jassyjade, anonymous:
How come no one has compared In-and-Out to Carl Jr.'s burger??? (Which I think is pretty tasty...) :)
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Teresa Gubbins, staff:
jassyjade, what a great idea!
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Catte, anonymous:
First, and last, visit (at the Central Expwy location). They got up to #22 before they remembered our #15, and the food was cold. Ambience was basic fast food, and the burger (had it been warm) would have been good, but not outstanding. I don't get what all the excitement is about. I suspect they were training staff for one of the yet to be opened spots, there was no room for anybody to move behind the counter; and because of the usual customer overload likewise in front.
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Teresa Gubbins, staff:
georgeous_lacey, nice report - thanks!
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Michael Schaefer, verified:
I tried it. It was a decent burger. However, I have no idea what all the hype was about. That about sums it up.
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pgsun53, anonymous:
Just went to In and out for the first time in Arlington. I had the double double and my wife had a hamburger. They were OK but not great. My wife said she like Sonic's $1 burger better. But In and Out is not even in the same ballpark as Whataburger. A Whataburger double double has so much more flavor and is much larger than In and Outs for about the same price. I feel sorry for anyone out west who has had this average little burger for all these years as the best thing going. I've tried most of the burgers people have mentioned in these reviews like Pappa's, Kincaids, Fudruckes and these are all good burgers but the ABSOLUTE BEST BURGER I have had in DFW is the HIDEOUT BURGER only found in Mansfield and Midilothian. I do not know what these guys do to make the burgers so incredible but all I know is that they have totally spoiled me. No burger at any price is better than what I have had at Hideout!!!!!
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bobpatterson, anonymous:
"In-N-Out makes its own buns, ..."
This is incorrect. It contracts Puritan Bakery to provide its buns.
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Teresa Gubbins, staff:
bobpatterson, thanks for your comment, i amended the story to add your input
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Jonathan Battle, verified:
Ate at the Frisco INO last night. Loved it - as always. Here's the thing - and the INO Lovers will get and the haters wont - It is "In n Out Burger" - it has a feel, a buzz, a love...that you either get or you don't get. To that end, there is no sense comparing it other places - this is In 'n Out - the others aren't. Period.
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poopbutt69, anonymous:
I found the staff very friendly, but it was as if an occult hand had filled my order, delivering unto me a suspiciously cold burger & fries.
I really enjoyed the milk shake though.
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What do you think?