Taco review: Taqueria Melis in Fort Worth

The carnitas contained dry, teeth-like slivers of pork.

Photo by Jose Ralat Maldonado

Melis Taqueria in Fort Worth

FORT WORTH — Having fulfilled Mrs. Ralat’s wish to visit the new, jammed Trader Joe’s in Fort Worth, it was my turn for some wish fulfillment. That’s how we ended up at Melis Taquería, a taco joint carved out of a wood-and-corrugated house overlooking the Union Pacific Davidson rail yard and no indoor seating.

From the fun house-leveled porch could be heard a telenovela's typical shouts and pleas. Two picnic tables were sheltered under corrugated metal. A third was near the Vickery Boulevard sidewalk. A stenciled menu on a wide wall and one next to the sliding-glass counter window made me confident we wouldn’t be leaving Taquería Melis hungry. (Hunger isn’t an option when a breakfast burrito is on offer.)

Leaving satisfied was another matter.

Photo by Jose Ralat Maldonado

Tacos at Melis Taqueria in Fort Worth

Almost each of the four tacos was liberated of its filling due to dessicated papery tortillas. Equally dry was the carnitas, teeth-like slivers of pork retaining minimal seasoning and topped with lettuce and tomato. I asked one of the women behind the window about the garnish. Was it a regional style? The reply was a distrustful frown and a “No. We wanted to do something different.”

I gave a big no to the minced pastor given a reluctant shot of cilantro and onion. The clumped nests of barbacoa skirted the brackish flavor danger zone and were satisfying enough. By far the best selection was the lengua. The cubed cow tongue was a straightforward taco -- a relief after such disappointments.

At least the murmuring freight cars below were pleasant.