Dessert review: Snack Global Kitchen and Bar treats dessert as an afterthought

by Jayme Campbell of Confection Confessions

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Lackluster desserts are just as off-putting as bad service or cold food.

DALLAS — I’ve been quite the brat lately, milking my powers for evil. Allow me to elaborate: A few weeks ago I had plastic surgery and husband-turned-nurse has been taking care of me. While I am mostly self-sufficient now, I still need help doing most things. With that said, I can be quite the demanding patient and quite exhausting to deal with.

A week or so after surgery, I was going stir crazy and demanded to leave the house for dinner. A couple of friends in tow, we decided to hit up the newly opened (and possibly cursed?) Snack Global Kitchen and Bar, that is located on Henderson. This location has been a revolving door of restaurants in the past few years. However, I was interested to see what desserts replaced the delicious Red Velvet Twinkies from the former occupant, Horne and Dekker.

Not one to say no to the girl loaded up on meds and pain pills, they obliged me when I wanted to order all of the desserts. Not that “all of the deserts” are a lot. They only offer three, and Snack being a “small plates” establishment, each dessert was about the equivalent of the amount of crumbs I find in my cleavage after a cupcake binge.

So, the three desserts that evening were a Peach Crisp with vanilla ice cream, bananas tempura with coconut ice cream and rum caramel, and a brownie sundae.

The brownie sundae was average at best: warm brownie (with little too much cake texture for my liking) and a modest scoop of vanilla ice cream. I appreciate the sea salt and rich caramel it was topped with. You really can’t mess up a brownie sundae, though I guess I just expect a bit more these days. It was good, but I can compare it to something I could get and make at the dessert buffet at Souper Salad or Golden Coral.

Next up was Bananas Tempura with coconut ice cream and rum caramel. The highlight of this dish was the coconut ice cream that was topped with even more fresh toasted coconut shreds. I thought it was a delicious accompaniment to the rum caramel, which might I add is pretty much perfection. I find myself dreaming of all of the things I would pair it with. The tempura batter on the bananas was a traditional tempura batter, but the cooking was all off because they were very soggy when they arrived to our table. Bananas are one of my favorite things; and when they are fried, the fat girl inside me is happy as a clam. However, I hate to waste calories on something that does not taste as good as I know it can.

All this complaining aside, I really adored the Peach Crisp. The batter was perfect and the peaches were perfectly ripe. I could have eaten plates of this. However, being the good southern girl that I am, I shared.

I hope Snack does well. I know a lot of people are against the “small foods” trend. I happen to enjoy trying a million different things and spreading my dining experience out over a couple of hours with good company. However, I do hope they realize desserts are not an afterthought and just as many people are put off by lackluster desserts than bad service or cold food.

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