Wednesday, December 5, 2012
Restaurant review: Uptown’s Acme F&B brunch redefines pancakes
You'll overdose on fabulous.
DALLAS After approximately 200 brunches (and 60 Brunches of the Month) under our belts (literally) since the inception of Gay List Daily five years ago, it takes a lot more than a $2 bottomless Mimosa and 50¢ Bloody Marys to impress us.
(But if you find some place that serves either of those that cheaply, please let us know!)
We’re used to the ubiquitous twist on Eggs Benedict, but never before have we been so thoroughly gaga over a plate of pancakes. Correction, pan cakes (above).
At Acme F&B’s new brunch, pan cakes are made in cast-iron forms. The resulting delicacies are the size and thickness of cornbread with a texture that’s a delightful battle between light-and-fluffy and dense-and-crispy. Served two to an order, this is one of those incredibly indulgent foods that you’ll eat in its entirety because it’s that good before realizing you’ve overdosed on fabulous.
Instead, share with friends.
That’ll leave more room to share a few additional highlights. Like the aforementioned Benedict-esque poached egg dish. Here, it’s even called Something Like A Benedict. Featuring short ribs and puff pastry, it’s one of the top three dishes on the brunch menu.
Rounding out that trifecta of tastiness is the Croque Madame with farm fresh eggs (you can see the difference just by looking at the yolks), perfectly cured ham, and a delightful Béchamel sauce. At any restaurant, this is an ideal marriage of breakfast and lunch, but at Acme F&B it’s a case study in flavor balance and precision execution.
In fact, save for an overly salty chicken fried steak, every dish we’ve eaten here verges on complete perfection.
And that’s a tall order with bitchy, food-worshiping queens like us.
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