Restaurant review: Overindulge in sweet flavors at Smoke

by Jayme Campbell of Confection Confessions

Where else are you going to find blueberry ricotta pancakes?

Photo by Jayme Campbell

Heavy Handed Blueberry and Ricotta Pancakes at Smoke.

OAK CLIFF — Smoke needs no introduction. If you live in Dallas, you know of Tim Byre’s iconic restaurant, Smoke located next to North Oak Cliff’s Belmont Hotel.

If you’re like me, you are in awe of the breakfast and the lunch menu and can never make a decision. If it is not the weekend, I like to go in around 10am, order biscuits and gravy and the much hyped heavy handed blueberry and ricotta pancakes. Once I enjoy this feast, and the clock ticks down to lunch time, the chopped coffee cured beef brisket sandwich and a nice slice of mescal and key lime meringue pie round out my feast.

First, let’s discuss these pancakes. I am a sucker for ricotta in anything. Sweet or savory, it is one of my favorite cheeses. These pancakes are thick, but light and laced with a generous amount of fresh blueberries. You have the insanely soft, pillow texture of the pancake, followed by the pop of the fresh berries. Floating around on top are some of the most insane apricots I have ever had. They are poached in vanilla and contain a generous dollop on fresh cream. It would be blasphemous to add syrup of any kind these amazing pancakes.

Photo by Jayme Campbell

Mescal and Key Lime Meringue Pie at Smoke.

Ahhh the pie! Normally, I am not a fan over an over-abundance of meringue. However, the amount of flavor they pack in the inch thick layer of key lime is over the top. You need all that meringue to round out the dish. For all of you people who don’t want a heavy dessert, and wish for something simple to end your meal, this pie is for you. It is light, but cures any craving for something sweet to end your meal.

I’ve heard talk about their other desserts only sold at dinner. If I can manage to peel myself away from the pancakes one day, I will go in at dinner time to see how they compare to the famed mescal and key lime meringue pie.