Restaurant review: Fish and shrimp soup from El Asadero warms the soul

by Colette Copeland of Colette's Dallas Mexican Food Reviews

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The salsa has a nice kick too.

FORT WORTH — When my cousin suggested we meet at a Mexican Restaurant for Christmas dinner, my family protested. "Mexican food for Christmas?" I reassured them I would cook all their favorites on Christmas Eve. (One of my specialities is Thai-Indian Dumplings, which has become a yearly tradition on Christmas Eve, so why not Mexican on Christmas Day?)

Christmas morning started with a serious rain and hailstorm. One cannot grumble out loud about rain, since this area has been in drought-mode since I moved here. By the time we began our drive to Fort Worth, the rain had turned into snow and ice. Texas drivers are not well-equipped to handle these conditions, so the highway quickly became littered with accidents and slow-moving traffic.

We arrived 40 minutes late and a bit stressed to El Asadero, a family-owned restaurant located near the Stockyards. Much to my surprise, the restaurant was full. Clearly we were not the only folks who decided to eat Mexican on Christmas Day.

The decor is funky-eclectic, made more so by the Christmas tinsel and decorations. The menu is authentic Northern Mexican focusing on meat and seafood dishes. I ordered the enchiladas mole poblanos. The dark mole sauce was rich with chilis and a pronounced chocolate flavor paired with tender shredded chicken. The best mole so far has been in Fort Worth; I haven't found really good mole in Plano.

My sick husband ordered the Caldo Mixto sopa -- a spicy fish and shrimp soup. Served in a gargantuan-sized bowl (enough for three sick husbands), the delicious broth was a blend of tomatoes, chilis, onions, and cilantro, with more than a hint of lime. Sick hubby said that there were a few fish spines in the bowl, but this did not deter his enjoyment. I could have inhaled a quart of the broth.

My cousin's husband ate one of the carne especialidad dishes. He didn't say much but began to sweat from the spiciness. His clean plate was the best testament.

Guac was fresh with not much spice. The salsa had a nice kick. Chips were yellow corn and heavy -- not my favorite.

A few things detracted from my enjoyment of the sumptuous feast:

• Door opening every few minutes with gusts of freezing wind ensured that we never got warm and cozy
• The bathroom was flooded with a few inches of water on the floor, soaking my already-wet shoes
• A woman was violently puking in the stall, which made me wonder ... Is she sick from drinking too many margaritas at 2:30 p.m.? Is she pregnant? The worst thought -- is she sick from the food? Maybe all of the above? No one really likes to hear retching sounds while trying to eat

Despite those detractions, I would go back to this family-owned restaurant that has served the Fort Worth community since 1982. But ... on a day that wasn't blustery cold.

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