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Wednesday, June 6, 2012 , Updated 12:00 p.m., June 8, 2012
In-N-Out in Dallas-Fort Worth: Is the honeymoon over?
More than a year after Texas' first In-N-Out opened, the glitz is wearing off.
When In-N-Out first came to North Texas, we got a front-row seat to watch a very emotional Danielle DeInnocentes cry happily in her burger. Then we got in line ourselves, waiting for our first taste of California cool on Texas soil. It sure seemed easier to have In-N-Out in our own backyards rather than fly to California for a Double Double.
Tell us:
In a matter of months, the SoCal burger chain built more than a dozen locations in Dallas-Fort Worth. We compared other burgers to In-N-Out's – even Whataburger. But slowly, like a friend who runs out of new jokes, we didn't find ourselves calling on In-N-Out Burger all that much. It became a novelty, not a standby.
“If there were two fast food joints next door to each other, and one of them was In-N-Out and the other sold tacos, I would go for the tacos even if I was craving a burger,” said Dallas resident Quentin Ford said. “Their burgers wallow in mediocrity, and a fast food junkie like me won't tolerate it.”
There are no more two hour waits, no more police officers guiding you to the holy grail of trendy burgers. No dashcam video of the mile-long line of cars. And all those things are what made In-N-Out seem so special. The honeymoon is officially over.
Oversaturation
Although In-N-Out is a California institution, the once elusive burger chain has oversaturated the Dallas-Fort Worth market within a year of its first store opening. Easier to come by, it has become less sought after. “I think people get over the novelty of waiting over 20 minutes in your car to get this burger you have heard about for a long time,” said former Dallas resident Justin Press. “It is like a rainbow unicorn: You have heard of it but you have never seen it. But if you have seen a rainbow unicorn like four or five times, you have seen a rainbow unicorn.” (Editor's note: We are still waiting to see our first rainbow unicorn.)
But serious fans say more In-N-Outs just means more good food to go around. “The vanilla shake is awesome, and I absolutely adore the animal style burger,” Garland resident Whitney Ross Manzo said. “You can really taste the freshness of the produce and the meat, and I also like that it's not a humongous size like other chains.”
Oh, those fries
Jonathan Zizzo
In-N-Out Burger's fries
The fries at In-N-Out are commonly considered to be the worst item on the menu. Manzo stands by them. “The fries are good, if you like fries that actually taste like potatoes,” she said. “I think that's why so many people claim to hate In-N-Out fries – they're used to ‘fast food’ fries like McDonald's, which are admittedly good but also incredibly fake. You can't even truly compare them. The other part about the fries that I like is you can order them regular, crispier, or softer, depending on your preference. You don't get that choice at other chains.”
The fries at each location of In-N-Out seem to differ depending on the day – some are crunchy, some not cooked enough, some teeny, some not. While it seems In-N-Out has fine-tuned their fry-making process (and also allows other options on their secret menu), their fries still don't cut it.
Small menu
In-N-Out isn't known for its options. Their menu is limited to burgers, fries, shakes, and other drinks, unless you order from the not-so-secret secret menu. Even then, there's not an option for chicken eaters; no onion rings here. That means In-N-Out needs to do the few things they do exceptionally well. Is it good enough to keep coming back for the exact same burger?
In-N-Out burger
Many will argue (and we won't disagree) that their burger with Spread – similar to Thousand Island – is tasty. But should burger eaters want a little variety, In-N-Out isn't the place to go. While one patron could visit a fast food joint like Wendy's and get a different meal every day of the week, the lack of variety at In-N-Out means that most people won't consistently re-visit for the same meal.
In-N-Outs to our west just seem to taste better – or maybe it was the exclusivity that tasted best.
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Disappointing to see this in west Plano. Entirely aborting the original concept, it seems - you're
Jason Rice, verified:
Absence makes the palate grow fonder.
Case in point - Krispy Kreme http://www.pegasusnews.com/news/2009/...
And while all the imports, especially the Califor-ninians here to escape the economy they themselves hath wrought, consider us Texans rubes and lower life forms, we tend to have a shorter tolerance for pretense and empty suits than most. (I'd say the only folks less so are Georgians - they'll strut around dapperly, but take far less shinola up front, and can tell you to dry up and blow away in the most soothing, elegant and eviscerating way.... oh and New Jersey-ans. They'll just rip the pretense off your face and hand it back to you folded and pressed.)
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mygenius, anonymous:
The McDonald's fries are not fake. The reason they are one of the best, if not the best tasting fries is because they buy premium POTATOES to make the fries. That's right, a P-O-T-A-T-O not fake. I only know this because a friend's parents owned a Mickie Dees franchise and I asked her why the fries were so darn good.
Me and the family waited in line at In-N-Out for 30 minutes and were not impressed with the food. We figured it was a busy time and went on a slower day. Still not impressed. The fries were limp, tasteless, and definitely the worst part of the meal every time. Atomic fries? What happens with those is you cover up the blandness of the fries with the addition of the toppings. So is it the fries that are tasty or the toppings?
The burger is no better than a Whopper and below the taste of a Quarter Pounder w/Cheese. I can also get a bigger, better tasting burger at Burger House or Keller's.
In-N-Out was too much hype and not enough substance. They oversaturated the market just like Steak & Shake, Food Lion, and how many others. They'll be "in and out" of Texas just like the others.
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Vic Savelli, staff:
While I find myself eating there a couple times a month, I am always surprised at the inconsistency from visit to visit. The Midway/635 location seems to serve fries that are about an inch long practically requiring a spoon to eat them. Depending on location, sometimes the fries are overcooked, sometimes soggy. The waiting time is also inconsistent. Regardless if you are a fan or not, what made McDonald's successful was their ability to produce a consistent and predictable product from any location. In-N-Out definitely has not mastered that aspect of a fast food operation...at least not in DFW. The other take away is that the employees are not nearly as gung-ho as when they launched Dallas. After waiting 10 minutes for a burger and with only one other person in the place, I asked the counter employee if it was normal for it to take 10 minutes to get a burger. She looked at me and responded "no" and walked away.
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rodneyhaas, anonymous:
In-n-out in DFW was a fad that lasted a few months. The simple thing is that we have a lot of great upscale burgers here. The California ex pats are still going, but that's about it. The over saturation I am sure will not help them any. I hope they have deep pockets, or we will start seeing closures.
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Alex Bentley, staff:
The building of the Plano location is taking a lot longer than I thought it would, which could be an indication that In-N-Out knows that demand is light. The only thing going for it is that it's in a stretch where it's the only fast food restaurant around, so people may choose it just because they don't want to drive anywhere else.
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John Turner-McClelland, verified:
I actually shock people by explaining that McDonalds also cooks real eggs and makes their own biscuits by hand. I worked there when I was a 16 year old, so I too know what is fake and what isn't. The fries are definitely made from real Idaho spuds. McDonalds is very particular about its supply chain if you know anything about it. Just because it's cheap doesn't necessarily mean filler.
But to the In n Out subject, I am not a beef eater. Hate it. Don't eat it. So I can't speak to their burger. I tried their animal style fries exactly one time and would not eat it again. Maybe if the fries were better. They did not appeal to me at all.
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lisaltx, anonymous:
If you want to see a Rainbow Unicorn watch "Anchorman: The Legend of Ron Burgundy". And back on topic I've eaten there once. It was okay but I wouldn't go out of my way to get one, and if my choice is that or pretty much anywhere else, the anywhere else wins.
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sjsew, anonymous:
Here's the thing...it's all in what you're used to. Taste is very regional, and my guess is that all us (yes, me too) transplanted Californians who fled the great weather and lousy economy for the lousy weather and better economy of Texas, just long for a taste of home. I consider In-N-Out the best burger on the planet. I tried Whattaburger and they put MUSTARD on it! Who puts mustard on a burger??? I didn't know you would have to tell them "no mustard". Worst burger I've ever eaten, all I could taste was the mustard. When I finally got to In N Out here, I thought I had died and gone to heaven. And just wait until y'all get your Trader Joes! I can hardly wait for that next piece of California heaven to arrive. Now if you could just do something about the gawdawful weather here and all the damn conservative republicans, you'd really have something!
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YNWAdallas, anonymous:
I like In N Out and can't wait for Trader Joe's!
(...I'm a native Texan too!)
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lisaltx, anonymous:
sjsew- I put mustard on a burger. My entire family puts mustard on burgers. My youngest won't eat mayo on anything and in fact only took about 2 bites of her only In-N-Out burger for that reason
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Jason Rice, verified:
I love Californians... "If it were just like home, I'd be happy"
When it becomes just like home, you'll have forced yourself to leave again.
It's called "messing in your nest."
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SitizenKane, anonymous:
@sjsew, .leave your damn Utopian Statism in Hollywood. You are now living in the land of jobs, jobs, and more jobs. Oh yeah, we also have balanced budgets, and right to work agreements.
Please don't pollute the Lone Star State with your lefty crap; carry a doggie bag and pick up after yourself.
Thanks.
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Jason Rice, verified:
But Kane - you gotta give 'em props for the phrase
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Lisa Keith, verified:
Finally went to In-N-Out for the very first time yesterday. It was the absolute WORST burger I've ever had, bar none. I could not believe, after all the hype, how really bad it tasted. I tried several bites thinking maybe it gets better towards the middle but nope it did not. I threw it away.
And why do people move to Dallas and then complain endlessly about it? That drives me insane. You can leave on the same road you came in on. And we wish you would.
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Jason Rice, verified:
... other news,
We'd like to announce the formation of the Lisa Kieth Fan Club.
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lisaltx, anonymous:
Where is the "like" button for Lisa Keith's post?
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manny, anonymous:
amen! @YNWAdallas: I like In N Out and can't wait for Trader Joe's!
love me some In-N-Out and Trader Joe's
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James Whitehouse, verified:
I haven't tried In-n-out burger yet. I mean to, but there's always a line at the Arlington location, when I'm in the mood. Can't say I wouldn't wait in line for a great burger, but there are quite a few great burger joints around here and, last I looked, you could still get a Jumbo Jack for about $1.50. In-n-Out doesn't strike me as either amazingly good or a decent bargain.
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YNWAdallas, anonymous:
@Manny - Trader Joe's is the B-O-M-B!!! First discovered them in Chicago. Great Food at great prices.
NNO is great too, just discovered that you can get chopped chili peppers added to the double - double. Tasty!
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Egorsti, anonymous:
Manzo's comments in the article about In-N-Out's fries are ridiculous and oddly defensive. Their fries are amazingly awful and will keep me from ever going back after my first and only visit. They're worse than eating stale shoestring potatoes out of a can. If the taste is a regional thing, well, this here region's not havin' no part o' them so-called fries. Their burger is just OK, and to me a poor imitation of a Keller's burger. "Secret menu"--gee, that is so intriguing, gawllllll-LEE! Puhleese. Just put everything on the menu, then at least it'll look like you offer more. Oh. And mustard on hamburgers is regional, too...as well as low-fat. I can't believe the gall of some of these commenters who've moved here from California. I think the orange juice in Northern California tastes funky, but I don't go around posting comments in their local media saying they need to bring in oranges from wherever we get 'em here. Absurd.
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Egorsti, anonymous:
By the way, I'd love something to be done about the "all the damn conservative republicans" mentioned by sjsew. And I was born and raised in Dallas. We're not all that way. Anyway, gotta get back to clearing tumbleweeds from around my oil well...
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Egorsti, anonymous:
I thought I was done, but.
It should be In 'n' Out, not In-N-Out. Sheesh.
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vickie, anonymous:
I like Five Guys. The problem I have with McDonald's is not the taste or ingredients (although I rarely eat fast food) it is the lack of cleanliness. And I guess that all depends on the particular restaurant manager. There's a McDonald's in Coppell, and the last time I read their health grades, they were penalized because there was no soap in the kitchen for employees to wash their hands with, and because the inspector found a hair on one of the meat patties. That's been a while, but still, that's what I think of now when I think about going through their drive through.
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manny, anonymous:
@YNWAdallas - i've heard about the chopped chili peppers but haven't tried it... i'll def do that the next trip though. thanks for reminding me.
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rgrimesr, anonymous:
sjsew- If you don't like our weather and politics, I-20 heads west and you can find your way back home! What's that? No jobs? Then STFU and join the party...It's OUR state and you left yours for a reason...get over yourself!
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mremanne, anonymous:
IN'N-OUT may have its' fans, but I am not one, and won't likely become one any time soon, when there's a McDonald's or a Jack-In-The-Box around every corner. It's too easy to stop in where you are, rather than making a special trip for a "special" burger.
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unlisted, anonymous:
McDonald's WILL make your fries extra crispy, if you ask. They even have a special parking area for you to wait, if you want to stay in your car, and they'll bring the fries out.
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unlisted, anonymous:
I ate some In-N-Out fries with cheese on top, and they were disgusting. The cheese was worse than Velveeta, and the combination made me want to throw up. I ate a couple and threw the rest away.
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Egorsti, anonymous:
Jack in the Box has a really great burger: Their top-of-the-line burger, which I can't think of the name of, rivals any burger around here. I love Jack in the Box in general, but the one by my office in Plano shut down and there's not one near my house, either. Sux. And for the record, what's all the hubbub about Burger House? They're no better than Sonic, and that sought-after french-fry seasoning they chain to the counter tastes like one part expired store-brand Seasoned Salt cut with ten parts ground Epsom salts. Eh.
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warrenmass, anonymous:
As someone who lived in both California and Texas, I think the real prize of California burgers is Carl's Jr. Very good charbroiled hamburgers. As for the worst, Whataburger has absolutely the WORST hamburgers I ever, even worse than McDona'd, if that's possible!
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jongipson8890, anonymous:
I prefer In & Out to any other fast food burger. The fries are indeed real. They taste like the fries I make at home, which is what I like. McDonalds may use real potatoes, but they're highly processed. They don't taste like real potatoes. I also like the size of the In & Out burger. It's a normal size for a normal adult. I order mine with grilled onions and chiles. I wish they'd offer a whole wheat bun. Btw, I was born and raised in Dallas. It's not a "West coast thing".
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grapejuice1998, anonymous:
My wife and I couldn't wait to eat at In n Out, when they first opened the one on 75 in McKinney. Neither of us were impressed with the burger. It sort of reminded me of a budget back yard bbq burger, but not in a good way. We also thought the fries were awful. They were only tolerable when they were hot, but they seemed to cool off extra fast. At that point they began to taste like those wayward french fries you used to find in the car as a kid. You would think to yourself, how can I not try that? Fires are good, right? Exactly.
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aprila711, anonymous:
McDonalds does use potatoes, but their fries are processed off-site, and they add beef flavoring so they taste like they were cooked in beef tallow (as they once were, pre-1990). In-N-Out ships potatoes to each store where they're cut and then fried in vegetable oil. Just fyi.
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Jonathan Battle, verified:
Folks - the original article was about the business side of In-n-Out and whether they over-saturated the market - not about the quality of the food. Is it possible for What-a-Burger AND 5 Guys AND In-N-Out - all to be great burger experiences? I say yes. If I say the In-n-Out Double Double is a great burger - it's just that. Not looking for converts or anyone to jump on the bandwagon. Plenty of great burgers in DFW to go aorund...and Im thankful for all the choices.
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sheshba, anonymous:
IMHO, In-n-Out food doesn't appeal to many the way other fast food burgers and fries do because everything is fresh (never frozen), not highly processed, and made to order. The burgers and fries aren't greasy like at other fast food places. If that's what your palate prefers, go for it. I'm happy as hell In-n-Out is here! Now, if we could just get Rubio's here and teach these sorry pseudo Mexican joints to make REAL fish tacos...
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DarrylC, anonymous:
Folks, forget the politics attached to all of this for a minute. Let's keep it simple:
Yes, In 'n' Out was overhyped, as so many other businesses have been.
Yes, they've probably oversaturated this market with locations. I'm a native Californian, and only in the L.A./Orange County basin do you see this many stores close together. Given that DFW has L.A. envy to some extent, though, and more than a few transplanted Californians, the company gambled that it could take that risk. If they're smart, the Plano location on 75 will be their last in this area, and they'll focus on Houston.
Yes, much of the appeal came from it being new and legendary. Since there are so many of us Californians here, they were guaranteed minimal loyalty. They still have it. I don't go as often as I did when the hype was on, but I still go. My daughter wasn't raised on In 'n' Out, but she loves it over any other fast food (and we don't eat fast food often anyway).
No, they're not dead. Far from it. I've visited most of the locations; only the one in Addison on the Tollway seems to be flagging. I've never been there during the height of lunch or dinner, so take that with a grain of salt.
If you don't like the quality of the food, either complain to their management, or don't go. In 'n' Out really takes quality control seriously. If they get enough buzz that their DFW operations are sandbagging, they'll respond.
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Jason Rice, verified:
You have your "cause" and your "effect" juxtaposed. No envy here. Just homesick vanity.
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DarrylC, anonymous:
Jason, I've lived in both L.A. and Dallas. This city models itself after L.A. in some ways, from architecture, infrastructure, and culture. Take out "envy" if you don't like the term, but it's there. No skin off my nose if locals don't see or admit it.
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Jason Rice, verified:
But I can keep the vanity. Oh rapture.
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SitizenKane, anonymous:
Funny arrogance: "if locals don't see it or admit", it still exists because I say so.
Trust me, we definetly don't envy that kind of LA attitude. In fact we despise it.
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Ron Dempesmeier, verified:
Never tried it and never cared. I'll stick with Kincaid's!
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Egorsti, anonymous:
jonmarctx, does it matter if people are expressing their opinions about the food? In fact, the article isn't just about the business side of things. But even if it was strictly business, so what if people talk about the food? I mean, what the?
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Poefortoad, anonymous:
I tried In N Out when it was first built and the police were still there directing traffic in the Downtown Fort Worth location. It was okay, I didn't care for the fries. I did like the size of the burger, I always order junior burgers at other burger places when it's offered, so the smaller size was good. I haven't been back and it's been a year. Think that says more than any review I could write.
I do love all the burger joints popping up - Five Guys, Kincaid's, Twisted Root, and Smashbuger (love the sweet potato fries there!).
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mikem620, anonymous:
In N Out is not horrible. To me it tastes like a churched up Mcdonalds burger. Ive had worse. Definitely not worth the hype. And, after reading all these comments, But to a Cali native, its a taste of home. It would be like opening a whataburger in cali and all the texans out there getting excited. (personally, I love whataburger) I have not seen a mention of one of the best most underrated burgers out there...Braums!!! Braums burgers are always fresh, hot juicy and just damn good, and, they have crinkle cut fries also. (no my last name is not Braum),
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Jason Rice, verified:
The thing I like best about In-N-Out burger bashing is I invariably find out about a new favorite joint to try. Tell me more about Kincaid's, somebody.
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SitizenKane, anonymous:
@JR; Kincaid's is in FW....long drive.
Locally give "Off Site Kitchen" a try. It is the best burger in Dallas right now IMO.
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Jason Rice, verified:
Off Site Kitchen - On Radar
thanks
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twinwillow, anonymous:
Off Site Kitchen=Best burger in the world! I eat no other!
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Lisa Keith, verified:
Best burger, in MY opinion only, is at Wingfield's.
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Egorsti, anonymous:
And Kinkaid's is closed on Sunday. Braum's burgers would be good if they didn't plop the patty onto the bottom bun right off the grill, where the bread absorbs all the patty's grease by the time you start eating it, making the bottom bun a soggy mess. I don't know why they haven't figured this out. Put the vegetables on, then the patty, then the cheese. Good grief.
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What do you think?