Restaurant review: Los Cucos’ makes tomatillo sauce with a crazy secret ingredient

by Colette Copeland of Colette's Dallas Mexican Food Reviews

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Pssst. It's avocado!

PLANO — I pass by this restaurant 3x/week going 70 on the Tollway. It never caught my attention. Who wants to go to the restaurant called The Cuckoos? I equate cuckoo with dodo and look what happened to that species.

Also as much as I pretend, I'm not immune to popular culture. One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest had a profound, harrowing and lasting impression on me. Not a good reference when embarking on a culinary experience.

Had to drive the son for a weigh-in last Friday night. He spent 3 weeks eating only lean meat, veggies, fruit and non-fat dairy to make weight. Since I am the chef of the household, I ate that too. Both of us needed an intense infusion of Mexican.

Given those circumstances, I'm not sure either of us can be particularly objective. We were both ravenous and majorly craving salt, guac and cheese. Despite my initial misgivings about the name and number of locations -- Hey! Next time you visit Salt Flats Utah, you can eat Los Cucos -- I was pleasantly surprised. While it didn't match my Benitos swoon, I was elated to get my blood sugar up to normal levels.

Reasons to visit Los Cucos:

1. Mole!!!

2. Mole!!! Not as good as Benitos, but rich and chocolaty, slightly sweet. Not enough chilies or complexity for me.

3. SPECIAL ORDER -- They made spinach enchiladas w/ mole just for me. KUDOS for special order accommodation.

4. SALSA -- Not just any salsa -- warm roasted chili salsa. I wanted to drink it by the glass. Also they had a special tomatillo salsa with cilantro, jalapeno, dollop of sour cream and the secret ingredient -- AVOCADO. It was spicy, creamy and flavorful. Unlike anything else I've tasted. Hubby commented -- this is the only guac I've ever liked. Even though it wasn't guac, that's saying something.

5. Beef fajitas -- Marinated, tender, spicy flank steak. Had a taste--melt in your mouth. Unlike the norm dry tough beef usually served with Mexican fare.

6. Fish Tacos -- Ummm. Flaky, fresh, grilled. Not overly spiced.

7. Mariachi band! -- Somehow I missed this. They were in the other dining room.

8. Friendly attentive service.

Reasons to stay away:

1. Bad Halloween decorations.

2. Scary goldfish bowl sized margaritas with beer chasers (I'm guessing this will be an enticement to some).

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