Restaurant review: Desperados in Dallas serves excellent ceviche

by Colette Copeland of Colette's Dallas Mexican Food Reviews

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The restaurant's decor is what we'll call "bandit kitsch."

DALLAS — I've been away for the past eight weeks with little to no Mexican food (except for my own recipes -- watermelon gazpacho, huevos rancheros, and tortilla pie. I even attempted a flan this summer).

I returned with a renewed dedication in finding the best of the best. So in one week, we went out three times. All my friends know about my blog, and most are happy to indulge my whims when we go out. Thursday I visited a friend who teaches painting at SMU. We went to Desperados on Greenville Avenue. Family owned and run since 1976, the restaurant caterers to the sports teams Mavericks, Rangers, Cowboys, and even for the Super Bowl. They've won awards for their ceviche, guac, steak, and taco dishes.

The outside looks a bit like the Alamo. Inside is "bandit kitsch" with guns on the walls and Warholian-esque paintings of Mexican desperados. We sat next to the fireplace that was filled with sparkling cut glass. There was a lot to look at.

Foodwise:

Guac: creamy and fresh with diced tomatoes. It was missing subtle spices and lime for a more complex flavor

Salsa: good flavor with pronounced chilis. They sell this in jars with no preservatives added. It was a bit on the thin side.

Chicken fajitas: My friend said they were OK, with good quality chicken breast -- tender and juicy, but missing spices.

Ceviche: excellent -- fresh chunks of fish served with lime, tomato juice, and lots of jalapeno and cilantro.

We both agreed that we would go back. The menu was extensive and service was friendly.

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