Review: La Nueva Fresh & Hot Tortilleria is a “Mecca of traditional taco artistry”

by Jose Ralat Maldonado of Taco Trail

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Except for the bistek.

DALLAS — We had come this way before, but at the time — approximately one year ago — the wife and I had decided La Nueva Fresh & Hot Tortilleria wasn’t right. The boy was with us and we were unsure of his ability to tolerate the bear-huggingheat and the dearth of seating in the Bachman Lake-area tortilla factory.

Without D, we were free to enjoy the stuff that tacos are made of and recommended by Scott of DallasFood.org. However, we didn’t merely enjoy, we loved the guisados (stews), La Nueva Fresh & Hot Tortilleria’s specialty. They are redolent, substantial preparations best paired with a freshly made tortilla, one that can push back against the mighty guisado. And that’s what is done at La Nueva. From the counter can be seen the large kitchen, tremendous pots bubbling away, vessels from which come edible sunrises.

The guisado verde with pork isn’t for those with a minimal tolerance to heat. The taco is predominantly heat with nuggets of texture imparted by the meat. Save it for last or at least followed by a pan dulce for a palate reboot.

The guisado rojo wasn’t as piquant, but mixed in with the pork were fine strips of nopal lacking viscous, gummy qualities so often found in tacos with cactus pads.

The guisados aren’t the only spectacular tacos at La Nueva.

The barbarcoa de borrego has elements of gaminess, but with rich sweetness, makes for quick work. The mole with chicken, a warm ochre, reveals a minute spice that ping-pongs around the mouth.

One of the beautiful things — and there are so, so many — is that the mole, like all of the tacos, isn’t brimming over with unruly fillings, nor is any competing for splatter space on the bottom of the Styrofoam box. The tortillas do not tear or peel away after the first bite. They are made-in-house, almost everything else, and are not-so-delicate envelopes containing delightful treasures.

One is all that’s needed.

Next, the choriqueso, packed with queso fresco, borders on too salty, but the earthiness of the taco trivializes the zealous seasoning.

The pastor’s char belied its soft, moist interior. The chopped lengua was delicate.

The flavors remain exquisite during each of our visits. Well, except for the bistek. The large chunks of beef have a deep char, too deep, as a matter of fact. The meat was dry and rubbery and the potatoes mush.

Nevertheless, the latter is a minor setback in my dining experience at La Neuva. The tortilleria is a magical place, a Mecca of traditional taco artistry and one worth a pilgrimage.

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