Thursday, April 18, 2013
Recipes: Oak shares its delectable Gianduja Ice Cream
Chances are, you've not yet tried your hand at a banana panna cotta with gianduja ice cream and kumquat marmalade.
DESIGN DISTRICT There are desserts in this world that appeal to not only the taste buds, but to nostalgia. In Texas, pecan pie might be one of these desserts -– or maybe a cobbler of some sort. Blue Bell makes a living off of grown-ups who grew up eating their ice cream, and as for brownies and cupcakes –- well, it’s probably fair to say that the appeal is universal.
But those nostalgic desserts –- they’re familiar. There’s no real opportunity for complete and overwhelming revelation -– a pecan pie may be the best you’ve ever had, but if you’ve tasted 100 pecan pies, most of it is still familiar. That’s not the case here. How many times have you tasted a banana panna cotta with gianduja ice cream and kumquat marmalade? Odds are, unless you’ve been to Oak in the Design District in the past month, you’ve never had it at all. And it is a revelation indeed. Sarah Green, Oak’s Pastry Chef, is the composer of this particular indulgence, and she was kind enough to share her recipe with us. We’ve separated the entire Roasted Banana Panna Cotta with Gianduja and Kumquat Marmalade recipe into four parts (Panna Cotta, Caramel Creme Sauce, Kumquat Marmalade, Gianduja Ice Cream), as it would be a shame to limit each aspect to this particular dish –- if you’d like to make the entire dish, then just make the four recipes.
We have pared this recipe down by 3/4 – Green’s original measurements were for restaurant quantities. As we state below, the use of Nutella in leiu of actual gianduja is acceptable –- the ice cream texture doesn’t alter dramatically –- but only if you’ve searched high and low and can’t find gianduja.
For the chocolate dirt you see in the photo, Green uses a chocolate cake that she dehydrates in the oven at low temperature, then grinds. Hazelnuts can be found at Central Market, and in the event that you absolutely cannot find gianduja, Green says Nutella can be used as a substitute -– but still soften and melt it in a double boiler. We have also included metric measurements because measurements that are volume-based are anathema from kitchen productivity.
- 12 Sheets Gelatin, gold We buy our gelatin sheets at modernistkitchen.com. Powdered gelatin does not convert equally by weight.
- 2 Cups (235 g) Heavy Cream
- 2 Cups (227 g) Whole Milk
- 1 Cup (200 g) Granulated Sugar
- 2 Cups (550 g) Bananas, Roasted, Peeled and Mashed
- 4 Ounces (113 g) Lemon Juice
- 1 Tablespoon (12 g) Vanilla Extract
- 1/2 teaspoon (2 g) Kosher Salt
- 4 Ounces (113 g) Kumquats washed, stems removed, halved, and seeded
- 4 Ounces (113 g) Granulated Sugar
- 4 Ounces (113 g) Water
- 2 Cups (480 g) Heavy Cream
- 2 Cups (454 g) Milk
- 5 Ounces (140 g) Granulated Sugar
- 12 Ounces (340 g) Gianduja, chopped and melted
- 2 teaspoons (7 g) Kosher Salt
- 2 Cups (480 g) Heavy Cream
- 8 Ounces (227 g) Granulated Sugar
- 1 Pinch Kosher Salt
Roasted Banana Panna Cotta
YIELD: Enough for 12 servings. Recipe can be halved.
A part of Oak Pastry Chef Sarah Green's Roasted Banana Panna Cotta with Gianduja Ice Cream, this recipe can be used in myriad applications -- though we suggest trying in for its original purpose, first.
Bloom gelatin sheets in ice water.
Heat cream and milk with sugar and bring to a boil.
In food processor, puree mashed banana with lemon juice, vanilla and salt. Ensure there are no lumps whatsoever.
Add gelatin to boiling milk and cream, add salt and vanilla.
In batches, scoop a couple large spoonfulls into a vitamix or blender, fill about 2/3 from the top and puree until smooth. pour through a chinois or other fine strainer to remove any remaining lumps. Continue until batch is completed.
Pour Panna Cotta into a half-pan (18" x 13") or other mold and chill until fully set.
Cut shapes, square-round - anything - or unmold from silicone mold. Keep covered in refrigerator until use.
A versatile condiment originally composed by Oak Pastry Chef Sarah Green for her Roasted Banana Panna Cotta with Gianduja Ice Cream.
Puree Kumquats with Sugar in food processor, then transfer to a blender for a second, finer puree.
Transfer mixture to a sauce pot and add water. Simmer until reduced to a proper consistency - a good trick is to keep a bowl in the refrigerator and drop a dollop of the mixture onto it. The result will be how the mixture will set when chilled.
Gianduja Ice Cream
This ice cream is a nod to the wonderful Italian Gianduja - though Nutella, a general type of gianduja paste, can be used in a pinch.
Heat Cream and Milk to a simmer.
Whisk Yolks, Sugar and Salt together.
Temper Eggs with hot Cream (whisk in a small amount of hot cream at a time into the eggs, preventing them from scrambling as they heat up). Strain through a chinois or other fine strainer.
Whisk small amounts of base into chocolate until fully emulsified and all base is added. Strain a second time.
Chill until very cold, and spin in ice cream maker until done.
Caramel Creme Sauce
YIELD: Plenty of caramel creme sauce
This creme sauce can be used in myriad applications, though its original purpose was for Oak Pastry Chef Sarah Green's Roasted Banana Panna Cotta with Gianduja Ice Cream
Warning: This recipe involves working with very high temperatures and it is important to work carefully so as not to burn yourself.
Place cream into a medium sauce pot and bring to a light simmer. Set aside.
Place a large heavy stock pot on the stove over very high heat. As pot begins to heat up, sprinkle a tiny bit of sugar on the bottom of the pot, if it immediately dissolves and turns clear the pot is hot enough, if it stays white let the pot continue heating until you see the sugar dissolve.
Add the rest of the sugar and gently stir the molten sugar around with a long handled heavy stainless steel spoon. Keep in mind that sugar melts when it has reached temps above 350F, so continue to work very carefully, don’t touch the melted sugar or attempt to taste it at any point during the cooking process.
Once all the sugar has melted and turned a bright amber shade, remove from heat. Using a long handled whisk, stir in about 1/3 of hot cream. Repeat until all the cream is added and set aside to cool completely.
Store in a cool place until ready to use.
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