Restaurant review: Taco’s House in Dallas dishes up impeccable lamb

The restaurant is just one in a series of amazing joints on Harry Hines.

Photo by Jose Ralat Maldonado

Taco's House on Harry Hines

DALLAS — Harry Hines Boulevard has a plethora of Mexican restaurants. And I’ve only begun to undertake my exploration of the area, an extension of the Maple Avenue taqueria corridor, first with The Taco Pronto Cafe. Now, with Taco's House.

The two-room family Mexican restaurant wasn’t on the day’s taco itinerary and, truth be told, was chosen for its festive exterior and the promise of barbacoa de borrego (lamb).

The barbacoa de borrego, a weekend special, was pleasantly gamey, although it came with a two-inch-size piece of connective tissue. When I raised it between index finger and thumb, my friend Carol snatched it from me, declaring her love for connective tissue.

Photo by Jose Ralat Maldonado

The barbacoa be borrego was impeccable, complete with connective tissue.

Taco House’s beef barbacoa was respectable. It had straightforward stewed flavors and carried enough liquid to not dry it out.

On the other hand, the cabeza was smooth and studded with iridescent fat. I wish the same could’ve been said about the sad carnitas, a sign of things to come. The pastor was soppy and orange with scant char. Thankfully, there was enough of the lamb for a last, positive bite.