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Content from our friends over at Colette's Dallas Mexican Food Reviews

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Restaurant review: In a world of bad Tex-Mex, Bandito’s stands out above the rest


It's great for vegetarians too.

Photo, taken 2012-12-27 11:32:10

Photo by Colette Copeland

— I purposely have been avoiding places with the words "Tex Mex." I realize this presents a bit of a conundrum since I live in Texas and am writing about Mexican food. However, since my foray into Mexican food eating and writing 15 months ago, I have eaten more than my fair share of bad Tex Mex. Lard, lard, and more lard.

Some friends recommended Bandito's, which opened last summer across from the Blue Goose Cantina. I haven't visited the Blue Goose yet, but the empty parking lot doesn't bode well for its future. Banditos seems to be enjoying a thriving business.

Banditos' niche is Austin Tex-Mex, which according to their mission hasn't been seen in these parts since the 1970s. I'm not enough of a Tex-Mex history expert to know what distinguishes vintage Austin Tex-Mex from contemporary Dallas Tex-Mex, but clearly they are doing something right.

The atmosphere is casual and relaxed. My friend ordered the aged ribeye tacos. At $17.95, this was one of the pricier items. I broke my no meat rule and tasted it. The steak was tender and juicy. It didn't melt in your mouth like filet, but had a slight smoky flavor. A serious cut above the typical fajita meat. Definitely worth the price.

I had the Lavaca enchiladas -- two spinach enchiladas with poblano sauce and jack cheese. Sauce for spinach enchiladas can be tricky. Ranchero doesn't complement spinach. Mole can sometimes overpower the taste and sour cream sauce is just plain gross. I'm not sure exactly what was in the poblano sauce besides the roasted poblano chilis, tomatillos, onions, and cilantro, but it was delicious and a perfect balance to the spinach.

Guacamole was fresh -- nothing memorable. We didn't have the margaritas, which Banditos is known for. I would definitely go back and try more dishes and chill out listening to some good Austin music.

Colette's Dallas Mexican Food Reviews
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doboy78, anonymous:

Blue Goose has been there for a while, they're not going anywhere. I've never had a bad food experience at any Blue Goose. Not saying it's top notch but it's consistent and that's better than most. No offense but for a food critic specializing in regional Mexican cuisine and restaurants and have a "no meat" rule...almost all credibility is out the window unless you're writing for one demograph only. Vegans and vegetarians. I've been to Bandito's...it is a very cool place. Atmosphere, food, and drink wise.

4 months, 2 weeks ago
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Rsullivan, anonymous:

Blue Goose is great! Thought this review was about Bandito's - not Blue Goose. I've been to both and prefer Blue Goose - if you're going to compare the two.

4 months, 2 weeks ago
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jhayden, anonymous:

“I haven't visited the Blue Goose yet, but the empty parking lot doesn't bode well for its future” -this is an uninformed comment that should have been left out of the article. You doomed Blue Goose’s future based on how the parking lot looked to you? It is busy every time I go there. The front parking lot appears empty at times because it is mostly blocked off for motorcycle parking as they frequently have biker nights when the front of the restaurant is flooded with motorcycles. I’d say you owe them a positive review in your next article.

“Ranchero doesn't complement spinach” - nothing compliments spinach.

“We didn't have the margaritas, which Banditos is known for” -you reviewed a restaurant without trying the item the restaurant is “known for”?

4 months, 2 weeks ago
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doboy78, anonymous:

I question the integrity of Pegagsus News to allow such asinine reviews from someone with a lack of talent. I wrote better reviews with actual substance when I was in high school.

4 months, 2 weeks ago
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Jason Rice, verified:

This is my favorite of hers:
http://www.pegasusnews.com/news/2012/...

Her big beef was that they wouldn't put alcohol on her Groupon tab.

4 months, 2 weeks ago
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doboy78, anonymous:

Her tag..."never trust a restaurant that doesn't have a website" . Pegasus News...why are you allowing this $#!+ to continue? That's not a reason to judge a restaurant! She's ruining restaurants with ignorance! If I were an owner, lawsuits would be rolling.

4 months, 2 weeks ago
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mepesco, anonymous:

Usually I don't comment, but had to dispute the empty parking lot statement for Blue Goose. I live in the Preston/Park area and Blue Goose is usually packed. It is true about the biker parking lot in front. My grown kids like Blue Goose, my husband loves Banditos (cheap beer). Not anything for me at either place since I am vegan...however, the Texas ambiance at Banditos is really nice.

4 months, 2 weeks ago
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janmore719, anonymous:

there is a Restaurant in wilmington nc that was served by girl friend some food with glass and hair in it just be on the look out when u visit this place other than that all was ok she did not get hurt

Mellow Mushroom 4311 Oleander Dr Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 452-3773

4 months, 2 weeks ago
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cangas, anonymous:

I have to echo all these comments, It starts to make you think more and more of these writers are just simply not qualified to do what they do. I don't think I obtained one bit of valuable information on whether to try Bandito's or not. While I agree there are many tex-mex restaurants In Dallas or Plano for that matter that serve mediocre food, they typically stay in business. They are family owned and are run in such a way as to survive not thrive. Take Los Cucos's that recently shut down. The food was mediocre, but the operation cost killed them, even in a super high traffic intersection of Park Blvd. and the Tollway. Simply too big, too much and not enough quality. Ms. Copeland, do you really think anybody reviewing Tex-Mex restaurants, that will not try meat as a rule should be considered serious? Maybe you should switch to reviewing Mexican restaurants that more resemble true Mexican food, which incorporates much more seafood and non meat based proteins.

4 months, 1 week ago
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jhayden, anonymous:

Seafood isn't meat?

4 months, 1 week ago
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terry4731, anonymous:

Couldn't agree more with the rest of you.

Tex-Mex is about cheese, onion, chile con carne...... enchiladas and tamales along with the tortillas. That other stuff (fish tacos) is something else, but its not Tex Mex.

A Vegan and Tex-Mex. Esta imposible

jhayden, anonymous:

Colette,

Please remove the following sentence from your article:

"I haven't visited the Blue Goose yet, but the empty parking lot doesn't bode well for its future."

This was an uninformed comment that has nothing to do with the restaurant you are reviewing.

gabe_s, anonymous:

La Hacienda Ranch on Preston Rd. near Campbell, is the best Mexican food in the city. Fajitas and steaks cooked over Mesquite, best margaritas in the city, offering "skinny" margaritas. This is a "don't miss".

3 months, 3 weeks ago
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