Taste test: Can gluten-free breads appeal to everyone?

by Brentney Hamilton

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Loaf it or leave it, that was our question.

Gluten allergies and Celiac Disease -- a digestive condition in which gluten, a protein composite that gives wheat and grain-based foods their consistency, causes an uncomfortable immune reaction -- have become so discussed in recent years it seems like every day another product hits the shelf or restaurant opens touting the benefits of life sans gluten. One locally-made product, Local Oven hot dog buns, were even recently named the official bun of the American Airlines Center.

We were skeptical: How could a gluten-free product really taste good enough that a major sports venue would prefer them to "normal" products?

With a budget of $50, we hit the bread freezers at several local stores, where GF bread is kept. For this particular taste test, we stuck with grocers that claim to cater to especially healthy lifestyles and special diets: Green Grocer, Central Market, and Sprouts. Though, in order to compare prices, we also checked out the Wal-Mart on Greenville Avenue, but that store didn't appear to carry any gluten-free products. The puzzled clerk simply asked, "Did you check the bread aisle?"

Green Grocer owner Cassie Green, who happened to be working the register, eagerly endorsed Local Oven even before learning about our taste test.

"I just have a mild allergy," Green said, "So, sometimes I switch over, and Local Oven definitely has gotten the taste down. And, it's more the consistency you want and expect. Plus, it's a local company, which makes it even more appealing to Green Grocer."

For our relatively unscientific taste test, the initial plan was to purchase only hamburger buns. However, this proved impossible, as most of the stores we visited carried only a couple of products from each brand, and while some brands do make hamburger buns, consumers can't always find them locally. We stuck with slices and buns that were most similar to white bread. It is important to note that a variety of products are also available, from packaged bread crumbs to seasoned croutons, Biscotti, cinnamon-raisin bread, cookies, and others, which weren't tested here.

Sprouts carried the widest selection with the most diverse brands, but they don't yet carry Local Oven products, or at least didn't have them at the time of this writing. Local Oven products can, however, be found at Green Grocer and Central Market.

Keep in mind that gluten-free breads must remain frozen until you're ready to consume them, so plan accordingly when it comes to freezer space. Go straight home after shopping trips if you're buying gluten-free.

We tested six breads:

Canyon Bakehouse Hamburger Buns, Loveland, CO -- $5.99 for 4 buns at Sprouts

• Serving size: 85 g
• Calories: 200
• Total fat: 4 g
• Carbs: 40 g
• Sugars: 5 g
• Protein: 4 g

Tasting notes: Flaky top with consistency similar to a croissant. Great flavor for bun top, but bottom tasted slightly fake -- almost like it it was chemically produced even though the ingredients are natural. Overall, eat the top, toss the bottom.

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Rudi's Gluten Free Bakery, Boulder, CO -- $5.99 per loaf (14 slices) at Sprouts

• Serving size: 37 g
• Calories: 90
• Total fat: 3.5 g
• Carbs: 17 g
• Sugars: 3 g
• Protein: 1 g

Tasting notes: Good flavor and texture, but forgettable.

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Glutino Fiber Bread, Laval, QC, Canada -- $6.29 per loaf (16 slices) at Sprouts

• Serving size: 35 g
• Calories: 90
• Total fat: 2 g
• Carbs: 19 g
• Sugars: less than 1 g
• Protein: less than 1 g

Tasting notes: Chewy, definitely not fluffy, and bland. Not gross, but not great.

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Udi's Gluten Free Soft and Delicious, Louisville, CO -- $5.69 per loaf (14 slices) at Green Grocer; also available at Central Market

• Serving size: 49 g
• Calories: 140
• Total fat: 4 g
• Carbs: 22 g
• Sugars: 2 g
• Protein: 4 g

Tasting notes: Crust is weird, with an almost squeaky consistency. The bread itself, however, is soft-ish with a distinctive beer flavor -- which some might like.

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Food for Life White Rice Bread, Corona, CA -- $5.99 per loaf (16 slices) at Sprouts

• Serving size: 43 g
• Calories: 110
• Total fat: 2 g
• Carbs: 21 g
• Sugars: 1 g
• Protein: 2 g

Tasting notes: Less fluffy than a non-gluten-free loaf, with a discernible rice flavor. It definitely does not taste like bread. Might pair with Asian food.

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Local Oven Hamburger Buns, Dallas, TX -- $5.99 for 4 buns at Green Grocer; also available at Central Market

• Serving size: 98 g
• Calories: 260
• Total fat: 10 g
• Carbs: 39 g
• Sugars: 1 g
• Protein: 5 g

Tasting notes: Fluffy and soft, these buns were a little sweet -- odd since there's only 1 g of sugar. The taste lives up to the hype; it would be difficult to discern this piece of bread from a non-gluten-free one. Also, each bun is individually wrapped, making the thawing process much easier and less messy.

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The rundown: Local Oven absolutely lives up to the hype as far as tasting "normal." As far as white bread goes, we can see why the AAC, Green Grocer, and other stores are eager to help this local company bring its solid recipe to Dallasites with gluten intolerance and Celiac Disease.

However, while GF breads won't hurt most folks, they're not necessarily a better option for everyone. Most are high in carbs, and Local Oven is actually quite high in fat, compared to Mrs. Baird's hamburger buns (adjusting accordingly for different-sized buns). Many gluten-free breads constitute as "health food" only inasmuch as they tend to be made with all natural ingredients.

The bottom line: There exist equally good non-gluten options on the market, creating very few, if any, compelling reasons to switch unless your doctor suggests an allergy. Something else to think about: Gluten-free products tend to be a full dollar or more than bread made with gluten, which usually requires no defrosting.

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