Tuesday, January 28, 2014
Cane Rosso in Fort Worth is finally open
So stop asking, OK?
FORT WORTH The red and white tiled oven at Cane Rosso in Fort Worth has been in place since early December, but when oh when would diners get to try a slice? Cane Rosso officially opened in Fort Worth Tuesday night.
The pizza joint is the third Cane Rosso in North Texas behind its Deep Ellum and East Dallas siblings. Owner Jay Jerrier and his staff serve Naples-style pizza cooked in a minute or two in that red-hot oven at temperatures reaching 900 degrees Fahrenheit.
When the first Cane Rosso opened, Dallas Morning News restaurant critic Leslie Brenner dubbed the pizza "more than outstanding; it's knock-it-out-of-the-ballpark excellent." It's become a place with a cult-like following and a secret menu. At an invite-only dinner for friends and family in late January at the new Fort Worth restaurant, those uninvited peeked into the windows on Magnolia Avenue, wondering when they'd be let in.
The new Fort Worth digs have exposed ceilings and kitschy, mismatched chandeliers hanging here and there. The oven is the star of the kitchen, certainly doing its job but also serving as a curious piece of art.
Pizzaiolo Shon Ben-Kely runs the kitchen, and the menu is very similar to the White Rock Lake location, Jerrier said. The signature pizza in Fort Worth is called Gipsy Danger, after one of Jerrier's dogs, and is topped with hot soppressata marmalade, roasted mushrooms, roasted jalapenos and house-made mozzarella.
Cane Rosso Fort Worth is not yet certified by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana because Jerrier can't apply until the restaurant is officially open, he said. "Sometimes it happens really quick, sometimes really slow," Jerrier said.
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