In this story about zinfandel, Ravenswood founder Joel Peterson is quoted as saying that the zinfandel market was hurt by "not having an iconic Zinfandel". Voila: Icon 2006, an "artisanal" wine, dark, dense, quirky, and delicious. 1,395 cases made, $75 a bottle. On the right: Pickberry Vineyards 2005, from fruit grown on Sonoma Mountain, dramatic like Bordeaux, only 1,100 cases made, $50 a bottle.