PickyEater

Michelle Carpenter is daring in her masterly evolution from her successful stint at Yamaguchi to the sublime Zen Sushi. This restaurant hits the right balance with a serene but luxe green tea atmoshere, high fidelity sound system, and lovely Japanese ceramics and glass to showcase her artful and conscious preparations. Everything (and I mean everything) is carefully selected down to the last sensory detail and is a lesson in studied contrasts of texture and color. Take a moment to enjoy the whole. Complex preparations are deceptively simple with a focus on fresh and clear flavors and synergistic seasonings and sauces. The atmosphere is very comfortable, and Zen Sushi the kind of restaurant that you can return to over and over again without being overburdened by a look at me, cold, or fussy atmosphere.

It takes bravery to let the food show, especially when you are in the middle of the U.S. One wonders what Alice Waters of Chez Panisse would have done with the immediate Dallas vegetable and meat selection. Here, while there are dishes available for non-sushi lovers, it's the sushi that shines. I could tell that my meal began well before I arrived when Michelle carefully selected the fish. Tuna sashimi/sliced sea bass . . . beautifully prepared and appropriately sliced to reflect their robust to delicate natures. The sashimi had focus and freshness. The pace was just right for conversation and enjoying my dinner companions.

Michelle enjoys her customers and remembers what they like. But, let her surprise you out of your sushi groove. It's nice to enjoy the experience of dining at a restaurant with personal service more typical of Europe where you aren't being rushed out the door for a second or third seating. Being welcome with an emphasis on savoring the moment shouldn't be confused with negligent service. You can time your own experience on movie night if the occassion warrants. This is a great relationship . . . uh, I meant restaurant.